Having a meal in a quiet place within a busy and buzzing city like Lima is quite a privilege. Add a cozy ambiance and wonderful meal and it is a treat! Saya, a new restaurant located in a privileged corner in San Isidro is the new place to be.

Décor

Recently opened as part of the Manto Hotel Lima MGallery (Accor), Saya has all the comfort you may ask for your next outing. The décor is modern, minimalistic, and classy without going overboard. There is an inviting bar with a good selection of beverages and an attractive outdoor terrace that looks like an ideal spot for an after-work cocktail with friends or colleagues while watching passers-by. I loved the coziness of their Flora Tristán salon where you can sip a glass of wine or have a cup of coffee while taking a look at the interesting collection of books they have on Lima.

Food

After a visit to the brand new and beautifully refurbished premises of this four-star hotel which we surely enjoyed, we were ready to commence our food experience. A young man with a big smile approached us and introduced himself as the chef: Diego Ortega, a Cordon Bleu fellow with a Master in Cataluña, and years of experience at the Ritz Carlton in Florida, Barcelona, and Dubai. Elaborating the menu, he said, required days of research and experimenting as the idea is to present food that Limeños used to eat during colonial times and up until the 19^th century, which makes use of those products, ingredients, and recipes that immigration flows brought in. At this point, our curiosity and hunger were growing by the minute.

The first dish to arrive was a Ceviche in evolution phase (s./44), a well- portioned ceviche with sea-bass, scallops, capers, red onions, avocado bites, cilantro, and caramelized sweet potatoes. Some additional intensely orange tiger’s milk comes in a small jar in case you want to pour more onto your plate of this wonderful sauce. The dish had plenty of fresh seafood ingredients, and I enjoyed the slightly ginger notes of this refreshing and classic starter. This was certainly a good start.

We then tried the Scallops, shrimp, and avocado causa (s./34). This was a beautifully presented classic of Peruvian cuisine that we also enjoyed very much. For this dish, mandarine oil is used in the elaboration of the puree giving it a special twist. A wonderful red chili and garlic aioli enhances the flavors of the causa while the crunchy sweet potato chips beautifully adorn this starter.

Our third and last starter was the Trip to the south XVII century (s./38). This dish consisted of a large-sized burrata cheese with fresh figs, cherry tomatoes, baby spinach, arugula, grapes, crunchy toasted almonds, and a wonderful quince-based) vinegar sauce. The burrata was of excellent quality, and the salad and sauce were just fabulous. We loved this starter and it immediately became the team’s favorite.

We moved on to the main dishes and we started with the Royal Feast (s./38). Not sure if this is the right name for the dish, but I can guarantee you will love it just the same. This was a pair of canellonni filled with duck confit, gorgonzola cheese, toasted almonds, and topped with abundant black olive sand. It was amazing! And in spite of the strong ingredients used for this dish such as the duck or the gorgonzola cheese, the flavors were smooth without being invasive. It was a true delicacy and not-to-be-missed dish.

We also loved the Cuchikanka (s./36), several slices of pancetta (pork meat) cooked for eighteen hours lying in a smooth and flavorful sweet potato mousseline bed, and some criollo sarza (onion and lime based salad). The pancetta which only by the looks seemed awesome, was incredibly crunchy, tender and succulent as it could be while the mousseline was the perfect accompaniment. It was one of the best pancettas I can remember ever having.

And when we thought it could not get any better, it did. The last dish to arrive was the Pacífic Seabass (s./65), a good piece of sea bass with some muña chimichurri (a bitter flavored Andean herb) topping, and a good portion of mixed seafood rice. The sea bass was tender, delicate and flavorful; the calamari, octopus, and shrimp in the rice were fresh and tasty while the rice was moist, cooked to perfection, slightly spicy, full of flavor and superb; one of the best seafood rice dishes I have ever had, trust me. Another not-to-be-missed dish on your list.

Dessert

For dessert we had the Mulato (s./25), a sphere of Tres Leches covered in 70% Peruvian chocolate, an Oport wine merengue layer, mint sugar, a fresh apple custard (chirimoya) sorbet, goldenberry coulis, and dry fruit sand complete this nicely presented dish. The Tres Leches was a dream as it was moist, not overly sweet, and we simply couldn’t get enough of it. The refreshing chirimoya sorbet, the dry fruit sand and the pieces of fresh chirimoya enhanced this very well -accomplished dessert. We loved it and surely, anyone would too.

We then tried Chicha (s./27), a Peruvian purple corn-based (chicha morada) zabaione with a scoop of banana passion fruit (tumbo) sorbet, decorated with dry apple bites, super crunchy quinoa and almond breadsticks, lemon merengue, pineapple jelly, and quince compote. It was quite a refreshing dessert and surely enjoyable.

Drinks

The display of liqueurs at the bar in Saya looked quite appealing and well-furbished. So we tried several drinks starting with Libertad (s./46), an intensely bourdeaux color cocktail made with pisco acholado, hibiscus, grapefruit juice, and spicy Schweppes made of three types of Peruvian chilies. A beautiful white petal adorns this drink symbolizing the sweetness and elegance of Peruvian women we were told. The drink has character, it is slightly bitter, and has a spicy touch at the end. We enjoyed it.

Our second drink was the Saya (s./42), made of Zacapa rum, sherry, coffee liqueur, chocolate bitter, lulo fruit juice, spiced honey raw cane sugar, corn beer (chicha de jora) and cinnamon. The Saya was brought in a lovely painted pumpkin round recipient, it was creamy almost like a pudding, slightly bitter and agreeable.

Our last drink was the Flora Tristán (s./36), a beautifully orangy cocktail made with French vodka, campari with jasmine tea, orange juice, star fruit, and lemongrass jelly. I loved the color as much as its delicate and smooth flavors. This was a great finale!

Bonus

From Monday to Friday during lunchtime, Saya has the ‘Daily Special’ that includes a refreshment for s./39, a perfect opportunity to try one of their fabulous dishes.

Final remarks

Saya was a big and highly pleasant surprise. We loved everything, every dish and every drink, and I think no one should miss a visit.

Saya
Manto Hotel Lima- Calle Los Libertadores 490, San Isidro

Parking – yes
Opening hours – 6 – 11 pm

Menu
Starters – s./ 25-42
Sandwiches – s./ 32-39
Main dishes – s./36 -45 (lunch hours)
Desserts – s./19 – 25
Glass of wine – s./22-33
Cocktails – s./30-52
Hot beverages – s./ 8 -12

Cover photo: Royal feast/ Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Saya se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

It had been a while since my last visit to Lima 27, a posh restaurant run by the well-known Chef Carlos Testino. The arrival of their new winter menu was a great excuse to explore the novelties chef Testino and his team had to offer.

The décor

Lima 27 is a modern and sober restaurant offering Peruvian and international contemporary food. White, red, and black are the colors that largely predominate across the white table-cloth salons. At the back, an open terrace with a bar offers customers a relaxed ambiance that is perfect for lunch, dinner, or evening drinks.

The food

As we sat down, a polite waiter immediately brought us a wooden box with dry coca leaves and chili peppers, along with a variety of homemade breads that had the shape and form of cute little Andean potatoes. A beautiful presentation this was, and we enjoyed all three types of breads, namely the yellow chili pepper, the purple olive, and the green coca bread. The buns were all soft and incredibly tasty, and together with the olive and red capsicum flavored butters, we already had the sense that this would be a great lunch.

Our appetizers soon made their appearance. These consisted of raw salmon, sour cream, black balsamic pearls that pretty much looked like caviar, served on a crispy tapioca. They were yummy and refreshing.

It was time for the starters and the first one to arrive was the Tiradito de Paiche (s./55). This dish consisted of slices of the Amazonian fish curated with airampo (the Andean red cactus fruit) that gave this originally white meat fish a beautiful intense red wine color. The tiradito is served with crunchy dry oca (Andean tuber), a delicious cashew tiger´s milk sauce, and cilantro oils. I liked its acidity levels which I found invigorating and quite savory.

Our second starter was the ‘Five Grilled Scallops’ (s./65). These are five different versions of grilled scallops, each one looking more attractive than the other, served in a heavy black iron plate. There is the red chili pepper, beautifully red and spicy as you can imagine; the yellow chili pepper that had a nice acid taste; the glazed scallop with artichoke and potato sand, a bit sweet, crunchy and strong-flavored; the scallop a la meuniere with toasted almonds and sprout that was spicy, crunchy, and had oriental flavors, and finally, the cleared butter and chives, that was my favorite as it was heaven on earth. All of them were fantastic, with the flavors of the grill and the sea fabulously coming together, certainly, a not-to-be missed plate.

Our last starter was the Goat Cheese Tarte (s./50), a baked pie with goat cheese, parmeggiano, artichokes, cherry tomatoes, pesto sauce, and an artichoke and champignon ragout. The tarte was incredibly soft, and I enjoyed its filling which I found flavorful and delicate as well.

We then passed on to the main dishes. Our first main dish was the Ravioli XXL (s./48). These are two large ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and artichokes bathed in an abundant creamy hazelnut sauce, parmiggiano foam, crunchy pumpkin seeds, and topped with a poached egg. The ravioli were very tasty and so was the sauce. In my view, the poached egg was an unnecessary addition.

We also tried the Socarrat (s./67), which not surprisingly was a dish rice, orange-red in color that had the shape of a tacu tacu but tasted more like a concolón, the slightly crunchy burnt rice. The rice had clams, baby corn and peas, and two succulent grilled shrimps that we enjoyed very much.

The Amazonian Papilotte (s./69) was the next to arrive. The paiche came wrapped in leaves and with fried cassava chips on the side. The paiche’s white meat was savory on its own while the juices formed after hours of cooking the fish with the Amazonian spices was simply mouth-watering. Not surprisingly, this dish became my favorite that day.

Our last main dish was the Four cuts Lomo Saltado (s./104), a generously served Peruvian-style beef sauté with onions and cherry tomatoes, some fried quail eggs, a bowl of rice mixed with corn on the side, and yellow fried potatoes. The four Angus cuts: sirloin, steak, skirt steak, and ribs were nicely cooked medium-rare, and all together the dish was juicy and tasty.

Dessert

It was time for desserts and we tried two of them. We had the Chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate (s./30), a total chocolate feast with chocolate presented in different shapes, forms, and textures. There was mousse, brownies, nutella spheres –I loved them-, ice cream, chocolate sand, and just a few strawberries. You really have to be a chocolate lover to absorb this much chocolate.

We also had the Coco and Lime Cheesecake (s./30) that unlike the classic cheesecake, this one was totally flat. A nice sweet and acid lime-based cream with lime peels covered much of the plate, and a scoop of matcha ice cream, grilled pineapple cylinders, and caramelized coconut bites completed this original cheesecake. It was certainly refreshing, not overly sweet and enjoyable.

Drinks

Lima 27 is also an ideal spot for some evening drinks with friends and colleagues. There are the classic ones, the signature cocktails as well as a variety of wines and liquers. We had a classic Pisco Sour (s./28), that was good and very foamy, followed by a Honey Negroni (s./30) that has rum, vermouth rosso, campari and honey spicy cream that was nice too. This drink had an interesting additional element, namely, a maraschino filled with goat cheese and strawberry coulis that I could have done without. We also tried the Aperol Twist (s./24), pisco, aperol, ginger beer, orange and lime juice, a classic that we all loved as it gave you a kick at the end.

Amongst the new cocktails Lima 27 is presenting we found the Golden Mule (s./28), vodka, ginger beer, grapefruit, and decorated with herbs from their own vegetable garden. The drink was light, fruity and slightly spicy. We also had the Corpse Revival 2.1 (s./25) that comes in a large cup with a big round ice cube that inevitably your nose will encounter. This drink is made with triple sec, gin, white vermouth, orange liqueur, Tahiti lime, and a turmeric and pepper oil mix. The cocktail was citric and had a bitter note at the end. Our last drink was the Chullpi Flip (s./28), that has quite an original presentation as the cup itself is covered with chocolate and raw cane sugar, adding flavor to this signature house drink. The cocktail is made with pisco, port wine, coconut milk, chullpi (Andean corn) orgeat, egg yolk and whites, and chocolate bitter. The result is a light and smooth cocktail, similar in taste to a Pisco sour, enjoyable and fun.

Final remarks

We had a good experience at Lima 27 as the service was impeccable, the setting was nice, and the food was delicious.

Lima 27
Calle Santa Luisa 295 San Isidro
Parking – yes

Opening hours – Monday to Saturday 12.30 – 4 pm, 7.30 – 11.30, Sunday 12.30 – 4 pm

Menu
Tasting menu – s./ 260 -360
Starters – s./44 – 140
Salads – s./43 – 49
Rice and pastas – s./49 – 137
Fish and meat – s./62 – 120
Dessert – s./23 -30
Cocktails – s./24 – 39
Wine by the glass – s./22 – 45
Beers – s./ 13 – 26

Cover photo: Tiradito de Paiche/Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Lima 27 se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

If you are looking for a special dining experience, look no further. At Baco y Vaca you will find excellent food, incredible wines and cocktails, professional and attentive spot-on service. Baco y Vaca is owned by David Sakihama and has been open for 12 years.

One of the highlights of our experience at Baco y Vaca was José Bracamonte, their charming, knowledgeable and entertaining wine sommelier with 20 years of experience. The team of Traveling and Living in Peru had the pleasure of touring Baco y Vaca’s intimate and exquisite, private underground wine cave with José and viewed more than 1,000 bottles and over 70 wine labels. The wine cave may be reserved for up to 8 people to enjoy a unique wine experience. José is instrumental in the well-chosen variety of wines available at Baco y Vaca. 

We proceeded to the cozy and modern rooftop terrace on the 2nd floor to begin our culinary experience. We began with a mason jar filled with artisanal pickled vegetables and peppers (encurtidos verduras y ajies) and an amazing breadbasket. 

We sampled one of the newer cocktails at Baco y Vaca created by bartender, John Juarez. The Chilcano Nikkei was a refreshing concoction prepared with Cuatro Gallos Mosto Verde Torontel Pisco, aloe vera, rice wine (mirin), Sumó juice de kiuri (Japanese cucumber) and lime oil. 

The food

The Degustación de Hongos a la Parrilla (S/. 55) was a table pleaser. Five varieties of mushrooms: Oyster, Porcon, Shitake, Portobello, and button mushrooms were served on a mini charcoal grill at our table. This is definitely for the truest of mushroom lovers, unrelentingly mushroomy heaven. This is an ideal vegetarian option as well.

The first wine we sampled was the superb, award-winning Peruvian wine from the Ica Valley, Tacama Seleccion Especial Alicante Bouschet. José informed us that this grape was “rescued” and no one else prepares this wine. It is a cross of Petit Bouschet and Grenache. It spends six months in a French oak barrel. It was the ideal wine to accompany the first few dishes.

Baco y Vaca is well known for its specialization in high-quality beef and grilled dishes. The big surprise the day of our visit was their preparations of the classic Peruvian dishes that we sampled. Hats off to head chef, José Siguas, and his culinary team, including Cesar Cervera. These dishes were extraordinary and deeply flavorful.

For the adventurous diner, the Cuy Crocante Cocido a Baja Temperatura con Papita Nativa y Capchi (S/. 99) was definitely a winner. The guinea pig was crunchy on the outside and the meat inside was tender. It was fried twice in aromatic oil and lard (clarified pork fat) to improve the texture and slow-cooked for 45 minutes. The crunchy cuy was presented resting on top of a generous portion of “corazon rojo” cubed Andean potatoes from Tumbay and the marvelous fresh cheese “capchi” mixed with huacatay and other Andean herbs. This was definitely one of the most eye-pleasing and delicious renditions of this dish that I have had the pleasure to eat. Baco y Vaca’s version elevated this dish from respectable to memorable.

Another wine we thoroughly enjoyed was also from the Ica Valley vineyard, Tacama Don Manuel Petit Verdot. This wine was a bit more robust than the first wine we sampled. Petit Verdot is a variety of red wine grape, principally used in classic Bordeaux blends. 

Next up was the Rocoto Relleno con Pastel de Papa Nativa (S/. 65), an absolutely amazing rendition of this popular dish from Arequipa. Baco y Vaca’s version incorporated tender Angus beef, mozzarella, Characata cheese (from Arequipa), hard-boiled egg and black olives and a homemade pomodoro sauce which generously filled the rocoto pepper (actually a fruit). This dish was accompanied by a pastel de papa. The components were traditional for a rocoto relleno, but the quality of the ingredients and presentation took it to a new level. 

The Pachamanca Angus al Kamado (S/. 150), was a bountiful presentation of Asado de Tira Angus, lamb, baby chicken, and panceta, served with native Andean potatoes, oca and mashua (tubers), habas (Peruvian fave beans), choclo (corn), and sweet potato, all seasoned liberally with Andean herbs served in a large clay pot. The addictive sauce of salsa capchi de la casa accompanied this dish. This dish was cooked for 2 ½ hours in a Kamado oven. The kamado is a Japanese, slightly egg-shaped ceramic oven which allows slow cooking and also allows you to grill, smoke, and bake at high temperatures. This was one of the best preparations of Pachamanca that I have enjoyed since I moved to Peru over 12 years ago. Everything was cooked perfectly and full of flavor. Many times it is dry and overcooked. A perfect dish for the current chilly Lima weather and generous enough to share between several people. The Pachamanca version at Baco y Vaca was a joy unto itself.

Desserts

The desserts did not disappoint. We shared the Carousel (S/. 38), the chef’s selection of 5 different desserts (Cheesecake de Uva, Tiramisu de Matcha, Chocolate Cake, Helado de Sal de Maras, and Crema Volteada). All of these desserts are also available by themselves on the dessert menu. They were all delicious, but our personal favorites were the Tiramisu de Matcha. It was incredibly creamy and unique. And the slightly salty ice cream prepared with Sal de Maras was a wonderful surprise. The chocolate cake was a table favorite as well with the 70% cacao from Cusco and a touch of sal de maras, a decadent and balanced cake. 

We ended with a wonderfully refreshing cordial, Uva Borgoña Frappe. The combination of Italia Pisco and grape juice combined with crushed ice served in an official Reidel Pisco glass was a perfect finale to our dining experience at Baco y Vaca. 

Overall impressions

We found Baco y Vaca’s menu, wines, and cocktail list to be ambitious and widely varied. I hope to return in the near future for one of their monthly wine pairings. 

Overall we walked away from Baco y Vaca feeling highly satisfied and pampered. Exactly how a premier dining experience should feel like. 

Baco y Vaca
Dos de Mayo 798, San Isidro 
Phone:  222-2622

Hours:  Monday-Thursday:  12:00 p.m.-11:00 p.m.
Friday/Saturday:  12:00 p.m.-12:00 a.m.
Sunday:  12:00 p.m.-5:00 p.m.

www.bacoyvaca.pe
reservas@bacoyvaca.pe
Capacity:  172 people
Instagram
Limited parking & Valet parking 
Private rooms available 

Starters:  S/. 19-69
Piqueos:  S/. 33-55
Soups:  S/. 35-85
Salads:  S/. 19-39
Main dishes:  S/. 38-150
Pastas:  S/. 40-49
Grill (chorizos, mushrooms, innards):  S/. 13-46
Angus Beef:  S/. 105-345
Other cuts/meats:  S/. 45-139
Parrilla for Sharing:  S/. 189-290
Robata Nikkei:  S/. 28-75
Side dishes:  S/. 13-29
Desserts:  S/. 15-38
Kids Menu:  S/. 35 (4 options)
Natural non-alcoholic beverages:  S/. 10
Coffee:  S/. 7-15
Infusions/Teas:  S/. 10
Water:  S/. 8-25

Full Bar available
Beer:  S/. 10-20
House Cocktails:  S/. 25-45
Classic cocktails:  S/. 25-29
Wines:  S/. 77-660 (bottle)
S/. 20-40 (per glass) 

Cover photo: Rocoto relleno con pastel de papa nativa/ Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Baco y Vaca se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Eight years ago an exclusive restaurant with a provocative name, Carnal, opened its doors to the public. Ever since, this high-end restaurant specializing in top quality meat has not stopped welcoming demanding customers, and in particular, meat lovers.

In fact, for several years in a row, Carnal continues to appear as the No. 1 best meat restaurant in Peru, according to the prestigious Summum food awards. Its success and fame has even crossed borders when another establishment opened up in Santiago de Chile. But as we were soon to discover, Carnal has more than meat to offer.

The décor

Located in a privileged corner in front of the beautiful Huaca Puccllana, Carnal is an elegant and high-end restaurant with pristine white-table cloth tables and an army of impeccable and well-trained waiters looking at every detail so that your time at Carnal is a memorable one. The setting is ideal for a business lunch or a romantic evening. There is an attractive bar and lounge area, and a terrace where you can enjoy some drinks and snacks.

The food

Carnal is known as a prime steakhouse where you will find prime and high choice certified American Angus Aberdeen meat, including filet mignon, ribeye, T-Bone, or the impressive Tomahawk. However, there are also plenty of other non-meat options, including fresh fish, octopus, lobster, and even caviar along with the multiple side-vegetarian options you can order.

As soon as we sat down, a lovely basket with homemade bread, crocantini and grissini was brought to us along with a variety of homemade butter and Maras salt mixes (S/. 10 pp). The flavored butters (goat cheese, oregano, garlic, truffled, blue cheese), as well as the salts deserve a special mention as they were each incredibly tasty and yummy.

For starters we had the Salmon Tartare (S/. 47), a widely demanded dish amongst Carnal regulars. This starter consisted of a fresh salmon, shallots, dill and seaweed oil compact layer sitting on an avocado base. The salmon was incredibly fresh and savory, and complemented very well with the creamy avocado base, while the toasts that come along were incredibly crunchy and delicious. A wonderful start this was.

We then tried the Waygú Sliders (S/. 45), another highly popular starter amongst customers. This starter consisted of three mini burgers of an Angus and Waygu blend. Each mini burger came with a different topping: there was the bacon and cheddar cheese, the Swiss cheese and caramelized onions, and the American cheese with BBQ sauce, the latter being my favorite. They were okay but did not wow me.

We also tried one of their salads, the Carnal Chopped Salad (S/. 35). This salad comes with a mix of lettuce, chonta (Amazonian palm heart), asparagus, avocado, cherry tomatoes, corn and fennel, and a very nice vinegar sauce. We enjoyed it.

Amongst ‘Other Specialties’ where you can have pasta, salmon or even lamb, we found an appealing Surf and Turf Kobe Truffled Risotto (S/. 75). This was a nicely-grained risotto with waygú meat slices, shrimp bites, and plenty of parmeggiano cheese. I enjoyed the truffle oil flavors of this savory risotto.

The time arrived to try the house specialty: their prime meat cuts. We tried a Filet Mignon (S/. 98), 250 grams of Angus meat cooked medium rare following our request that looked quite appealing with its red colors and crispy outer layer obtained thanks to the use of a broiler at 1800 Fahrenheit degrees, we were told. At Carnal, the meat is not grilled but rather broiled which makes it look and taste different. The filet was of high quality, a lean clean cut, and therefore, not much meat juice on my plate. But then we had an Outside Skirt (S/. 108 ), 350 grams of skirt meat topped with chives that we enjoyed more as it was juicy and flavorful. I sprinkled a little of that Maras oregano salt, and it raised my meat to another level.

To accompany the various dishes, there are a variety of side dishes ranging from the classic French fries to a potato gratin, mashed potatoes, mushrooms and American corn cream among others. We opted for the Truffled French Fries (S/. 25), a nice portion of French fries with truffled notes that were quite savory without being invasive. We also had the Creamed Spinach (S/. 19), creamy baked spinach with a crispy layer that was smooth and delightful.

Desserts

It was time for desserts and, once again, there is quite a selection. We opted for the French Toast (S/. 30), this soaked brioche in vanilla cream, maple syrup, strawberries and cream, was incredible. The brioche was soft, savory, and beautifully crispy in its outer layer; it was so good you could easily eat it in one-go and forget about the rest. The maple syrup was wonderful and not overly sweet, and the vanilla ice cream added freshness to this likable dessert. Every spoonful was a joy, and I confess having a hard time putting my spoon down.

But then the impressive Brulee Lemon Pie (S/. 30) arrived and we knew we would just fall for it. This was a generous slice of lemon pie with a caramelized top, a scoop of soft merengue, and tucked in between these two, an intensely red colored scoop of wild berries sorbet. The pie was excellent as I enjoyed its texture and the perfect level of acidity and sweetness it had. The beautiful crispy top layer similar to a crème brulee gave this dessert a very special and attractive look and a crunchy texture that played well with the lemon pie. The sorbet was simply delicious and refreshing. Once again, I could not stop eating until it was all gone. So don’t tell me I did not warn you against falling into earthly pleasures at Carnal.

The drinks

Carnal has an attractive bar that looks ideal for after-work drinks, a night cap or whenever you feel to stop-by. We tried a Carnal Sour (S/. 34), similar to a pisco sour but with camu camu (Amazonian fruit) and lychee. The taste is that of a pisco sour but with the lychee giving it a special, unique and very pleasant flavor. This drink was a total success and I loved it.

Another favorite was the Carnal no. 5 (S/. 45) with gin, basil and lime, a fashionable drink nowadays in Berlin we were told. This green colored cocktail was light, refreshing and so delicious that you risk having it in a-go.

Our final drink was the Carnal no. 1 (S/. 43), a beautifully intense orange color cocktail served in a cute glass that has vodka, aperol and lime. The taste was slightly bitter, it had character and it was enjoyable.

Final remarks

Carnal surprised us as it was not only a place for meat-lovers, but rather a restaurant serving top quality food, providing excellent service, and making sure customers come back again and again. After all, you only live once and why not succumb to the earthly pleasures?

Carnal

Elías Aguirre 698 Miraflores

Telf.  243 3088-9

Parking – yes valet parking

Opening hours – Monday to Saturday 12.45 – 4, 7.30 -.., Sunday only lunch

Starters and appetizers – S/. 36- 95

Salads – S/. 35- 48

Sandwiches – S/. 39 – 59

Raw bar – S/. 45 – 245

Angus Steaks –S/. 98 – 218

Other specialties – S/. 42 – 75

Desserts – S/. 30

Cocktails – S/. 29 – 49

Wine by the glass – S/. 26 – 65

Cover photo: Outside Skirt/Maria Alejandra Baraybar

La entrada Restaurant Review: Carnal se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Petra Eat and Drink, a small charming restaurant and lounge serving fusion food, is situated in one of those few traditionally old Miraflores houses that tend to disappear in this ever-growing city.

Their concept is to try to please everyone no matter what their choice of food is, and at what time their hunger calls. They are open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, coffee time, dinner, and even late-night drinks.

Décor

Lots of color, art, and adornment define this charming Miraflores spot. Within this two-story floor house, you can find several different rooms that will certainly accommodate you. I particularly liked the ones on the second floor, but the bar and lounge areas are also great places to enjoy your drinks. Consider coming at night when the terrace is nicely lit; it’s a time when the restaurant acquires a magical touch.

The Food

We went for lunch and noticed there were meat dishes, seafood, and vegetarian options, and that’s why we decided to try a little bit of everything. Readers also might be interested in knowing that the menu is available in English.

In these winter days, I appreciate that restaurants have soups in their menus. They have a daily soup, a pumpkin cream, and a minestrone. We opted for the Pumpkin Cream (S/. 18) that came in a lovely pumpkin-shaped bowl. The soup did not wow me, but I will still have to come back to try their Minestrone.

The Panko Fried Shrimp (S/. 28) is one of the several appetizers they have on their menu. This dish consists of a bundle of deep-fried panko shrimp that comes with fried cassava and a satay sauce dip. Both the shrimp and the cassava were nicely fried and crispy. The satay sauce made with nuts, butter, basil, turmeric, and coconut had an Indian flavor that did not quite make it for me, although my colleague did enjoy it.

Another appetizer was the Fried Calamari (S/. 22). The calamari were, once again, nicely fried and so was the cassava. I particularly loved the criolla salad that also came along as it was super fresh, flavorful and beautifully spicy.

There are few salad options at Petra. We chose the Cesar’s Salad (S/. 24) with Romaine lettuce, fried chicken, bacon bites, croutons and parmiggiano cheese. A mayo sauce comes along with the salad. The salad was fine but what I enjoyed the most were the croutons.

We also tasted one of their sandwich and burger options: the Petra Burger (S/ .26), which is one of the most demanded dishes, we were told. This is a large burger with minced meat mixed with shrimp and mushrooms, cheddar cheese, onions, and tomatoes. The burger was certainly juicy and very tasty. The native fries with skin that were served along with this dish were absolutely delicious. They were crispy on the outside and super soft on the inside. My burger-lover colleagues enjoyed this burger, giving it a definite thumbs-up.

For the main course, we tried the Seafood Fettucini (S/. 35), a well-served plate of pasta with shrimp, octopus, calamari, bell peppers, and peas mixed with cream. This dish was full of flavor and I loved the intensely yellow chili pepper creamy sauce with the pasta and the rest of ingredients. This was definitely my favorite dish and I will certainly go back for this dish.

In the spirit of trying everything on the menu, we had one vegetarian dish: the Vegetarian Lasagna (S/. 30). The lasagna had eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, cheese, and lots of tomato sauce (perhaps way too much, in my view). I enjoyed the lasagna, but I think the tomato sauce was too invasive. Our dear hosts took note of this and promised this would be fixed.

Our last dish was the Satay Trout (S/. 35), a nicely grilled trout bathed in a satay sauce, and Basmati fried rice on the side. The trout was nice on its own, and I would have preferred to have the sauce on the side. I also expected more from the rice as well.

Our lunch ended with a cup of coffee, a blend from the Madre de Dios, Puno, and Villa Rica region that my demanding Italian colleagues enjoyed.

Drinks

At Petra, there are several drinking options. Anything from beer to gin, whiskey, and signature cocktails. We tried the Noches de Petra (S/. 26), campari, Zacapa rum, pineapple and lemon. I liked this cocktail, in particular, for the touch of bitter it had. Then came the Paloma (S/. 28), which consisted of tequila and mezcal in a salt-covered cup. This transparent drink was powerful, especially at the end where you feel the kick. We also tried the Forbidden Sour (S/. 28), Jack Daniels, Cinzano Rosso, lime, and egg white. This was a long foamy dark-colored drink; actually, it kind of looked like a beer. I loved the foam and more so the taste. Definitely, my favorite drink.

We also tried some artisanal beer by the name of Dos Nómades (S/. 18). We had the Pale Beer that looks like a regular beer, and the Palo Santo, which is a darker version and stronger in flavor. Both are quite popular amongst customers and my colleagues enjoyed every single drop.

Bonus

You also may be interested in checking out Petra’s Happy Hour, 2 x S/. 20 that runs every day from Monday to Thursday all day long and on weekends until 9 pm.

For those like me that are looking for food on a daily basis, you may be interested in learning that Petra has a Daily Special for S/. 22, consisting of a salad, a main course (a vegan option is always available), and a beverage. This option is available from Mondays to Fridays.  Another special offer is the Quiche with a glass of wine (S/. 20). During Tea time (4 to 6pm), they have a variety of desserts that apparently have become quite popular. I will have to check them out.

Lastly, Petra is pet-friendly and there is parking for bicycles and scooters.

Petra Eat and Drink

Calle General Recavarren 298 Miraflores

Tel. 782 3209

Opening hours – Sunday to Thursday 8 – 1 am, and Friday and Saturday – 8 am to 3 am

Parking – no; Scooter and bike – yes

Menu

Breakfast – S/. 12 -25

Appetizers – S/. 13 -30

Soups – S/. 16 -20

Pastas – S/. 25 -30

Burgers and sandwiches – S/. 12 – 26

Main course – S/. 35 -38

Cocktails – S/. 18 -28

Wine by the glass – S/. 18

Hot and cold beverages – S/. 5 -15

Delivery – Uber eats, Rappi

Cover photo: Seafood Fettucini/Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Petra Eat and Drink se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Created in the 1990s, Alfresco has perfected classic Peruvian and seafood recipes. But it has not stopped there: the new Miraflores location also has a menu with traditional dishes and innovations that arouse the curiosity of Peruvians and foreigners.

At this location, you will encounter some of the chefs who have been around since the Aramburú corporation started, which owns this and other prestigious restaurants. In Alfresco, the menu is divided into two colors to differentiate new dishes from the traditional ones, and there is also a market that offers the catch of the day. The market operates with attention to availability and sustainability.

Appetizers

A good idea would be to choose the Alfresco tastings to share (S/ 97 each). This cold platter comes with Amazon scallops, ceviche, prawns with golf sauce, poke, sushi, tiradito, and causa Alfresco. You may also be interested in trying the grilled & roasted platter with parmesan scallops, black butter razor clams, clams, Chinese Nikkei jalea, shrimp Milanese and anticucho. Our decision to try the Alfresco tasting to share couldn’t have been a better one.

After sampling their ceviche, it was clear to us why this is a dish that the restaurant is so well-known for. The prawns with golf sauce includes avocado and the sauce has a very unique flavor that opens the appetite; the poke (S/ 57), one of the new plates, has an excellent salmon lacquered in miso, and comes with warm sushi rice, vegetables, nori, and sesame seeds. As far as the main dishes go, it is one of the best options.

The tiradito comes in different presentations: chili cream, trio (chili cream, rocoto, and cilantro), Nikkei, Amazonian, and octopus “Spanish–Peruvian” style. If you want something new, this last one is the best choice. Also, if you ask for ceviches, you will find a great variety, including hot ceviche (S/ 44), with yellow chili cream, North shore tuna ceviche (S/ 49), with coconut milk, tiger milk, roasted pineapple, and pecans, or the veggie ceviche (S/ 27).

Soups and main dishes

In Alfresco, soups can also be considered main dishes, and because of their size, you can order one to share. We tried the parihuela (S/ 68), which includes a whole crab, seafood of the day and yucca. The broth was very tasty and smooth. Our favorite main dish was the ceviche brasa (S/ 55). It included the catch of the day, squids, prawns & razor clams a la brasa, roasted with leche de tigre.

Alfresco’s menu also has grilled, pastas, and rice section. In the last section (rice) you can find the paella Valenciana (S/ 88). This paella has participated in an international paella contest in Spain and received the sixth place. We tried this particular paella with roasted baby chicken and rabbit. And if you prefer something Peruvian, you can ask for the Arroz con pato (S/ 54), a duck confit (leg) that is prepared with zapallo loche (a Peruvian pumpkin), or the arroz with a crispy guinea pig confit (S/ 58), dressed in a peanut sauce and native potatoes.

Desserts

Desserts at Alfresco are a pleasure for the eyes and the mouth. There are ten options available, among which we tried the vanilla cheesecake (S/ 29), with soft almond crumble, a great cheese flavor, berries, and ice cream. We also tried the chocolate ingot (S/ 29), which a very intense mousse with different cacao textures and vanilla ice cream.

Drinks

The bar is divided into traditional, inspirational, vintage drinks (Capitán, Pisco Punch, Algarrobina), sours & chilcanos (five options for each one) and beers (craft beer, local and international ones). For other options, you can ask for the Alfresco Spritz (S/ 24). It has Aperol, Beefeater, chili blend (to make it spicy), tomato confit (to make it sweet), sparkling wine and muña. And it also comes with a carved ice sculpture that shows the spirit of Alfresco: is classic with a touch of modern style, and a lot of dedication. 

Alfresco

Av. 28 de julio 331, Miraflores 

Monday to Sunday, 12.00 – 23.00 

Ceviches: S/ 48 – S/ 59

Appetizers: S/ 33 – S/ 57

Soups: S/ 37 – S/ 68

Grilled: S/ 55 – S/ 69

Rices and pastas: S/ 36 – S/ 88

Desserts: S/ 18 – S/ 39

Cocktails: S/ 22 – S/ 36

Beers: S/ 13 – S/ 24

Bonus:

You can ask for the catch of the day and choose three ways to prepare it. With any order you will receive the house bread with different sauces.

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Restaurant Review: Nami Sushi Bar

Cover photo: Parihuela/Maria Alejandra Baraybar

La entrada Restaurant Review: Alfresco se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

It’s been a while since our last review of Quimera, the restaurant located within the trendy BTH Hotel. I remember well that I’d always leave with a big smile after having a meal whenever I visited this place. Recently, I learned there is a new chef and a new menu, so we were ready to make another visit to this chic restaurant serving Peruvian contemporary food.

Décor

In consonance with the hotel, the décor at Quimera is cool, stylish and elegant. I like the gigantic litographies that extend through the walls and roof, the display of fine wine bottles, and the open kitchen where you see chefs and assistants meticulously going through orders and producing elaborate and artistic dishes.

The food

The experience at Quimera starts with a cleansing of the table using pleasant aromatic fumes that come out from a pot the waiters bring in. Immediately after, some homemade bread and crissini are brought in along with a dish artistically displaying the name of the restaurant written with the olive oil and vinegar that you will use to dip in your bread.

It was time to order some food and we began with the Octopus in BBQ sauce (S/. 55). This dish consists of a good-sized piece of grilled octopus, baked potatoes, avocado, cherry tomatoes, and a wild berry coulis. The presentation was colorful and quite appealing, I must say. The octopus was tasty and perfectly cooked, and the Andean potatoes were deliciously soft and extremely tasty. I also enjoyed the vegetables and the criolla and honey mustard sauces that come along. Altogether it was a well-accomplished dish, and certainly a good start to the day.

The second starter we had was the Quinoa Trilogy (S/. 35). This was a mix of three types of quinoa topped with avocado and sprouts, a perfect dish for our vegan readers. The quinoa was crunchy and the beautifully colored passion fruit sauce that is served at its base made this dish super refreshing and very enjoyable.

We also tried two of their main dishes. We had the Trout a la Meniere (S/. 60) served with purple corn mashed potatoes and vegetables. The trout with butter, capers and lemon-flavored sauce was enjoyable while the mashed potatoes were quite original, smooth and tasty.

The other main dish we tried was the Sirloin with elderberry sauce (S/. 60). This was quite a colorful dish and nicely presented as all the dishes at Quimera. It consisted of a few pieces of super juicy and succulent flambéed sirloin, a few nice baked mushrooms with cheese, sautéed cherry tomatoes and white onions, crunchy vegetables, and the elderberry sauce. We enjoyed this dish as well.

Desserts

It was time for dessert and I remember well how much I enjoyed desserts at Quimera the times I’ve visited and how beautifully they are presented. We tried two desserts on this occasion. The first one was the 70% Chocolate Volcano (S/. 28) that came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. It was nicely presented but the chocolate did not taste like a 70% chocolate, but rather much lower, so it was a bit disappointing. The other dessert we had was the Chocolate Glass Mousse (S/. 28), an intensely pink cherry gel sponge-cake sphere filled with chocolate, fudge, and butterscotch that was okay, but once again, the problem stood with the chocolate.

Drinks

At Quimera you will find a fine collection of wines, classic cocktails, and signature cocktails. On this occasion, we tried some classics like the Pisco Sour (S/. 32) that was fine, a Pisco Punch (S/. 28) that was refreshing, slightly sweet, highly-enjoyable and became the team’s favorite, and a Manhattan (S/. 30), the nicely flavored whisky and vermouth rosso cocktail that gave you a kick after every sip.

Final remarks

I would say Quimera is worth a visit as you will enjoy the ambiance and décor of the restaurant as much as the food. Prices are on the high-end so be prepared.

Quimera

Av. Guardia Civil 727 San Borja

Telf. 319 5333

Opening hours: Monday through Sunday 12 – 11 pm

Menu

Starters – S/. 30 – 70

Salads – S/. 35

Soups – S/. 30 -70

Main dishes – S/. 50 – 65

Drinks – S/.28 – 40

Hot beverages – S/. 14- 15

Cover photo: Sirloin with elderberry sauce/Marco Simola

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Restaurant Review: Social

La entrada Restaurant Review: Quimera se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Mattoni is a recent newcomer to Miraflores. When I discovered this restaurant is owned by Chef Diego Sorni and the same owners of Cabos (one of my favorite restaurants in Callao), I was looking forward with anticipation to visiting. Even though Mattoni has only been opened since August 22nd, they seem to be enjoying brisk business.

Drinks

We began with a couple of Mattoni’s popular Italian cocktails. The refreshing Mattoni Tonic (S/ 26) jumps on the bandwagon of the Campari rage with a combination of Campari, orange juice, gin, and tonic served in a large balloon wine glass. The Cynar Julep (S/ 26) was a unique concoction of Cynar (artichoke liqueur), grapefruit, mint, sugar, and crushed ice.

Food

The first dish we tried was Steak tartare Mattoni (S/ 44), an excellent version of a traditional steak tartare topped off with an organic cage-free egg yolk, an anchovy and accompanied with homemade crispy toasts. We also enjoyed the generous drizzle of a mayonnaise with a hint of Worcestershire and anchovy. Steak tartare is one of my favorite dishes and this version did not disappoint.

Our second starter was the Pizzetta de stracciatella y pesto (S/ 22). Pizzetta is typically finger food and resembles a mini pizza. Pizzettas can be prepared using flatbread as the base and sometimes I have seen puff pastry used as the dough base. The base for this particular pizzetta was actually very thin and almost had a cracker consistency. The toppings were stracciatella (a variety of soft Italian buffalo cheese), pine nuts and pesto. This starter was not that impressive to me mostly because I was not a fan of the cracker consistency.

One of the best meatball sandwiches I’ve had in a long time is Mattoni’s Albóndigas en ciabatta (S/ 16). These meatballs were prepared with a pork and beef mixture and were very moist and satisfying. At least 4 to 5 meatballs were served on a homemade ciabatta, topped off with a mild and flavorful tomato sauce and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, as well homemade crispy potato chips. We all agreed we would return for this sandwich.

We observed several people ordering Mattoni’s roast beef sandwich as well, which looked delectable. That’s also on my list to try next time I visit. In addition to preparing rare roast beef on their premises, they also prepare their own top-quality pastrami which we had the opportunity to sample.

Next up were the artisanal fresh pastas. We began with the Spaghetti aglio e olio con prosciutto crocante (S/ 26). The house-made spaghetti was interspersed with a liberal amount of fried garlic slices along with a large slice of fried prosciutto displayed prominently in the middle of the spaghetti. The dish was quite flavorful, but we personally found the spaghetti a bit too “al dente” for our tastes.

The Casserece al pesto Genovese e burrata 100% piñones (S/ 44) was luxurious and decadent. I fell in love with this pasta. Casarecce are short pasta noodles with curled edges and have a groove down the middle. They look a bit like mini rolled up scrolls. These noodles are originally from Sicily, but also very popular in other regions of Southern Italy. Because of its textured grooves, sauces adhere well to this pasta. Pesto is a popular sauce that is often served with this pasta, so it wasn’t a surprise that the sauce in this dish was a wonderful robust pesto, with lots of wonderful cracked pepper, crushed pine nuts, garlic and crowned with a lovely burrata cheese. I’m a fanatic for burrata so this dish was heavenly for me.

One of the favorites at our table was the Asado de tira con maccheroni a los 4 quesos (S/ 69). The popular Argentinian-style beef ribs were slow cooked a total of 9 hours. The beef was very tender and the sauce flavorful, and was accompanied by a decadent homemade macaroni with a 4-cheese sauce which included the incredible Colombo Gorgonzola. Both the beef and macaroni were quite rich so because of that this dish would be ideal for sharing.

We really enjoyed the Caramelloni de zucca y amaretti (S/ 32), little handmade pastas in the shape of candy wrappers and filled with zapallo loche (squash) and a light touch of the Italian amaretto liqueur. The entire dish was accented with fresh sage leaves. This pasta was delicate, delicious and would be an ideal starter for two people.

The desserts served at Mattoni are very respectable and satisfying. Our personal favorites included the Tiramisu (S/ 22) which was served in a small mason jar and prepared with mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers and topped off with chocolate shavings and edible colorful flowers: highly enjoyable.

The Cheesecake de queso (S/ 18) was a generous slice of rustic cheesecake served with a fig marmalade. This dessert is very trendy at the moment and many versions are served at several restaurants in Lima. I found this version good but slightly underwhelming.

The Panna cotta con tomillo y frutos rojos (S/. 18) was visually pleasing to the eye, refreshing, and delicious. The panna cotta was creamy and lightly infused with thyme, served with a few seasonal berries as well as a berry coulis.

For the ice cream lovers out there, Mattoni has 7 different flavors. We sampled the chocolate (S/ 8.5), pistachio (S/ 15) and vanilla (S/ 15). All of their ice creams are prepared in-house.

After we enjoyed our lunch we did a brief tour of the impeccably clean and organized open kitchen. We especially enjoyed watching some of the friendly staff prepare fresh artisanal pastas. Mattoni prepares fresh pastas every day. An assortment of fresh pastas are also available for purchase (½ kilo for S/ 19 and 1 kilo for S/ 36).

Mattoni also serves breakfast and offers a diverse selection of options. All of the breads and desserts are also made on the premises.

Mattoni is elegantly casual and comfortable. The team of Traveling and Living in Peru dined in the large outdoor covered patio. I also recently found out that Mattoni is dog-friendly.

Overall we found Mattoni to be respectful of the Italian tradition and the products used in their dishes. The menu is approachable and offers a decent amount of variety without being overwhelming. The staff is experienced and courteous as well.

Mattoni Peru

Av. Santa Cruz 1310, Miraflores 

Hours: 

Monday-Friday: 7:30 am – 11:00 pm

Saturday: 8:30 am – 11:00 pm

Sunday: 8:30 am -10:00 pm

Capacity:  45 people

Reservations & info: administracion@mattoni.com.pe 

Instagram 

Cover photo: Casserece al pesto Genovese e burrata 100% piñones/Maria Alejandra Baraybar

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Food Review: Clemente Cafe

La entrada Restaurant Review: Mattoni se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Hotel B, an art-filled boutique hotel in the Barranco district, offers a contemporary menu of dishes and drinks that appeal to both locals and tourists.

Situated in a corner of a prime location on a busy street of Barranco, stands Hotel B with its imposing and beautiful early-century architectural style. Inside this luxury hotel, plenty of art work, elegance and good taste. The twenty-room boutique hotel was recently included on Travel & Leisure‘s Top 10 City Hotels in Central and South America of 2019. The Traveling & Living in Peru team was recently invited to the hotel’s restaurant for a taste of the renovated menu. 

Decor

Before taking a table in their lovely terrace, we took a small tour of this three-story building. The hotel was recently enlarged with the acquisition of what used to be the Lucía de la Puente Gallery, a space now well-integrated into the original Hotel B premises. Lots of steps and intricate passageways will lead you through elegant rooms and tranquil common spaces filled with exclusive artworks of renowned Peruvian artists, hotel memorabilia, and even an ancient textile piece of the Wari pre-Inca culture. Designers Jordi Puig and Sandra Masías have certainly left their skilled and experienced touch as decorators to this classy Barranco hotel. 

Food

After admiring the artwork and refined decoration, we finally sat down. We were ready to indulge ourselves into other pleasures, that of good food and drinks. Led by Chef Franco Hurtado, the kitchen at Hotel B could not disappoint. The food is mainly contemporary Peruvian but you can also find some Mediterranean dishes. 

The first starter we had was the Razor Clams & Sea Urchins (S/ 38). The dish was beautifully presented with the razor clams laid out in a layer of salt, finely chopped apple, yacón (a refreshing Andean tuber), sea urchins, a superb citric sauce and a wonderful chalaquita (a traditional Peruvian chunky salsa) made of fresh onion, lime and pepper. It was refreshing and nice.

Then came the Trout Causa (S/ 40), the very Peruvian mashed potato dish served with trout, quinoa pop, avocado, sprouts, and a cebiche sauce. The texture of the causa was perfect, the trout was very fresh, and I enjoyed the crunchiness brought in by the quinoa pop. The spicy cebiche sauce played its part very well in this symphony of flavors and colors. No wonder it is one of the most popular dishes at Hotel B, as we were told. 

Another pleasant surprise was the Sweetbread and Oca (S/ 38). Not being a huge fan of any inner parts, I was ready to try this dish for the sake of my loyal readers. Turns out that the sweetbread was quite savory while the oca (an Andean tuber) was creamy and flavorful. A nice delicate cocona (Amazonian citric fruit) sauce completed this well-accomplished dish.

It was time for the main courses and we started with a highly popular one amongst regular customers: the Grilled Paiche (S/ 68). This dish consists of several cuts of the Amazonian fish, both the fillet itself as well as the meat that surrounds the organs which tends to be greasy and full of flavor. Some mashed Ucayali red beans and a chonta (Amazonian palm heart) salad with a sacha-tomato drizzling complete the dish. The paiche was rich and savoury, both cuts I must say, and I also enjoyed the creamy mashed red beans and the refreshing chonta salad. 

The Arracacha Gnocchi (S/ 54) was the next main dish to arrive. The gnocchi are made from the Andean tuber and were nicely al dente, slightly sweet and full of flavor. Some pork stew with Amazonian sausage, crunchy chestnuts and sacha-cilantro completed the dish. Another enjoyable option to consider during your visit.

We had a second pasta and that was the Pear Ravioli (S/ 54), a highly popular dish, we were told. The ravioli come with a sauce that is made out of four cheeses: gorgonzola, paria, Grana Padano and a cheese from Huaraz. A hazelnut praliné and fresh arugula completed this dish that was nice without being spectacular.

Our last main dish was a take on a classic Peruvian dish, Seco de Cabrito (S/ 74). Made with goat meat and served with creamy pumpkin, arugula and cilantro. The meat was very tender and the creamy pumpkin was nice.

While I enjoyed all the dishes mentioned above, I have to say my favorite ones happened to be in the ‘Para Compartir’ (To Share) menu. These dishes are  normally offered at the bar or on the rooftop. We tried the Crunchy Guinea Pig (S/ 52), consisting of several pieces of fried guinea pig served on top of incredibly soft and mushy native potatoes, a delicious black mint pesto sauce, and topped with a spicy chalaquita. Though I am not a fan of guinea pig, I found this dish incredibly tasty and one of the best dishes we had that day. I loved the mixture of textures, the perfect balance obtained amongst all the ingredients, and the presentation itself. It was an explosion of flavors that could satisfy any palate. 

We also tried the Octopus Tacos (S/ 34), three open tacos filled with grilled octopus, a fantastic corn puree and shallots. A spicy element was added with a creamy guasacaca Venezuelan sauce made with avocado, lime and jalapeño. The tacos were super tasty, and along with the Guinea Pig, amongst my favorite dishes that day.

Desserts

We tried two desserts this time. The first one was the Chirimuña (S/ 32), a meringue-based dessert served with toasted custard apple, crunchy pecans, a muña-based English sauce, pisco caramel foam, and a custard apple sorbet on the side. I enjoyed the mix of textures, its freshness and flavors. 

We also had the Hardcore Chocolate (S/ 32), a dessert meant for hardcore chocolate lovers as its name clearly reveals. This is a creamy bar of seven textures that uses two Peruvian chocolates and a Belgian one. There is ganache, brownie, mousse, chocolate nibs, chocolate foam and an almond praline. It just may be impossible to find a dessert in Lima with more chocolate than that. 

Drinks

Hotel B is a fantastic place to go out for drinks and have some light food. There is a very chic French bistro bar on the level floor and a nice small rooftop overlooking the ocean that makes it a fantastic place to watch the sunset while sipping a glass of your favorite wine. Hotel B has an excellent choice of wines, and if you are into whites, try the Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2018 from Chile which is fantastic. 

If you are a cocktail person, you will also find a good variety, including nice warm winter cocktails and plenty of gin-based ones as well. Behind the bar, stands Axel Romero, recipient of the prestigious 2018 Summum Award for best bartender. So do expect the best.

To put ourselves in the mood we started with a Bourbon Tonic (S/ 50), refreshing and enjoyable as you can imagine. Then came Inspiración No.7 (S/ 42), a cocktail served in a light bulb that stands firm inside a big transparent bowl. Alluring as it was, the cocktail was very pleasant and slightly sweet. The next cocktail was the Clover Club (S/ 38), a beautifully intense pink cocktail served with a layer of foam, and made with gin, Campari, lemon and red fruit syrup. It was refreshing, savory, slightly sweet, and highly enjoyable; perhaps my favorite one.

We also tried one of the warm cocktails: the Mate Milenario (S/ 38). This drink is made with Gin Citadelle, vermouth, coca tea, lulo juice and cardamom syrup. Served warm, it was slightly sweet, despite the addition of coca tea, which is usually bitter. This mate would be ideal for ending your meal on a cool spring night. 

Final remarks

Our experience at Hotel B was surely enjoyable. No matter whether you go for drinks, lunch or dinner, you will be able to enjoy the ambiance and artwork. It should be noted that evenings can get quite busy. Delight yourself with the savory food options that Franco Hurtado has for you, the top-notch drinks by barman champion Axel, and the first-class service of Hotel B staff. 

Hotel B

Jr. Saenz Peña 204 Barranco

Tel. (01) 2060800

Website

Menu

Starters – S/ 32 – 52

Main dishes – S/ 54 – 84

Desserts – S/ 30 -32

Wine by the glass – S/ 22 – 40

Cover Photo: Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Hotel B se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Offering views of Barranco’s most famous landmarks, Santos Comedor & Cantina draws locals and tourists alike.

For many of my expat friends, Barranco stands as their favorite neighborhood. Its streets full of artwork and graffiti, the early century houses here and there, its relaxed and bohemian character, are all attractive elements for many Peruvians and tourists alike. Add a considerable number of bars, restaurants and happening places, and you will get the full picture now.  Famous landmarks are, without any doubt, El Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs) and the Bajada de Baños (the walkway down to the ocean). If you want to have a nice view of these sites and more, then you should pay a visit to Santos Comedor & Cantina. 

Decor

Santos is located inside an old house just across the Puente de los Suspiros from the rustic church, Iglesia La Hermita. Inside it is full of bright colors, wooden floors, original tiles, and the high ceilings typical of old Barranquino houses. A lovely and narrow wooden balcony allows you to have a privileged view of the bridge and the charms of Barranco. The decor is quite simple with the wooden bar at the end standing out. 

Food

Perhaps due to its prime location and the fact that it used to be a traditional peña some ten years ago, one could easily think that it is all about drinks in Santos. Starting this year, Santos expanded its offer of drinks and snacks to serving brunch, lunch and dinner to its hungry customers. At our visit to this locale we found that the traditional Peruvian food is offered at reasonable prices.

As you can expect, there are a few appetizers on their menu. We tried the Butter bean croquettes with Andean herbs and mozzarella cheese (S/ 20) consisting of several tender croquettes and some mayonnaise sauce on the side. The croquettes were soft and tasty, while the sauce was okay. We asked for another sauce option, and they brought us a few others that we liked better, in particular one with finely chopped chilies. We then tried Mozzarella cheese sticks (S/ 25), a basket with several deep fried cheese sticks and an avocado aioli. The cheese sticks were extremely soft and my colleague seemed to enjoy them. I definitely preferred the Fried empanadas with creamy chicken (S/ 25) that were crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. 

We then passed on to try some starters. We had a Classic ceviche (S/ 23), apparently a popular dish amongst Santos customers. The ceviche was made with perico fish marinated in lime juice, red onions, peppers and cilantro. In the classic way it was served with boiled corn and sweet potatoes. We all agreed that something did not go the right way that day. Next came the Causa limeña (S/ 17), the classic mashed yellow potatoes dish, seasoned with lime juice and filled with chicken, avocado and tomato. The causa was fine and quite generously served. Consisting of several slices of trout seasoned with olive oil and lime juice, the Smoked trout carpaccio (S/ 19) was the last starter we had that day. Somehow, this starter did not fully convince me.  

Things got much better when we moved on to the main dishes. We started with the Lamb meatballs in a cilantro and herb sauce (S/ 25), a dish that I haven’t seen elsewhere. The meatballs are mixed with Andean baby potatoes and covered with a wonderful cilantro and herb sauce, and is served with a bowl of white rice. I love lamb and found the meatballs to be tender and full of flavor. The Andean potatoes and the cilantro and herb sauce were the ideal accompaniment for this well-accomplished dish. I could easily come back for this dish alone.

We then tried the Lomo Saltado (S/ 37), the classic sautée beef tenderloin, onions and tomatoes mixed with fries and white rice on the side. It is one of the most popular dishes at Santos, we were told. The portion we got was generous and it looked and tasted fantastic. The meat was tender, it was juicy and flavorful, and we all loved it. 

To our surprise, Santos Comedor & Cantina, also offers a selection of very appealing Peruvian desserts. Starting with the classic guargueros (pastries filled with dulce de leche), the picarones (S/ 10) available on Sundays, and up to a wide selection of ice cream flavors offered in the ice cream parlor Amore Mio (S/ 8 -12) in the room next door. We opted for the very Peruvian Suspiro Limeño (S/ 7.50), a creamy dessert that is meant for those with a very sweet tooth. I enjoyed the texture of the suspiro, the flavor, and the fact that it was not overly sweet. It comes in a small portion but enough to keep you satisfied. We also tried their Red Fruit Cheesecake (S/ 10) that was soft, tender and slightly sweet. Do not miss this dessert on your next visit to Santos.

Drinks

Santos offers national and imported beers as well as classic and house cocktails. The names of the house cocktails caught our attention. We had the pleasing Gringo Sour (S/ 23), a mix of pisco, lime and syrup. Then came the Mula Peruana (S/ 24). This mix of pisco, (lots of) ginger beer, golden berry and lime is similar to a Moscow Mule but with pisco and served in the traditional white tin jar that is found in markets across Peru. Lastly, the Lima Rum Berita (S/ 22), with rum, passion fruit and basil, was a tasty and memorable cocktail . 

Final remarks

Santos is a great place to have a beer or a full lunch, and enjoy the view of the most emblematic and romantic landscapes of Barranco. The relaxed ambiance is one enjoyed by Peruvians and tourists alike, and even some lovely birds that frequent the property and know what is good.

Santos Comedor & Cantina

Jr. Zepita 203 Barranco

Tel. 234 6155

Opening hours – Monday to Thursday 12pm – 12am, Friday 12pm -2am, Saturday 10am – 2am, Sunday 10am –10pm

Brunch S/ 20 – 38

Appetizers – S/ 20 – 25

Starters – S/ 14 -23

Main dishes – S/ 30 – 37

Sandwiches – S/ 23 – 25

Desserts – S/ 2- 10

Beverages – S/ 8- 18

Cocktails – S/ 20 -25

Beers – S/ 10 -18

Cover photos: Marco Simola/Traveling & Living in Peru

La entrada Restaurant Review: Santos Comedor & Cantina se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

New to the Miraflores district, Tokio Ramen will bring its authentic flavors and generous portions to a sophisticated (and tourist friendly) area of Lima.

The renowned Tokio Ramen just recently opened up their second location with the same ownership, same delicious authentic food, and the same moderate prices. The new location can be found in a brand new building in Miraflores, a sophisticated and urban setting. Tokio Ramen has a huge following and is an ideal locale to enjoy authentic ramen and generous portions. 

After eight years of popularity and success at the original Tokio Ramen location in Jesus Maria, Juan Carlos Tanaka (chef and owner), Jorge Tsukayama (manager and Juan Carlos’ lifelong friend) and partners decided to branch out and open another restaurant in the Miraflores area at the requests of their fans and customers. Tokio Ramen was the first ramen restaurant in Peru coming from Japan eight years ago, so they thought it was time to have more Tokio Ramen locations for the people who want to eat ramen. 

A little background

Juan Carlos Tanaka is the grandson of Japanese immigrants. He was born and raised in the same Jesus Maria neighborhood that the original Tokio Ramen is currently located. Two years ago the team of Traveling and Living in Peru visited the original Tokio Ramen and I interviewed Juan Carlos. He remains as passionate about ramen as ever and is still a walking encyclopedia of all things ramen. Juan Carlos’ energy, modesty, charm and hard-working drive is still intact as well. 

Juan Carlos moved to Japan at age 23 and spent 15 years there. He worked at a variety of Japanese restaurants during his time in Japan. His last four years he spent working in ramen-ya (ramen restaurants). Juan Carlos earned the designation of “sensei del ramen” since he achieved a certain mastery level.

Ramen in Japan

Ramen is everywhere in Japan. It’s a beloved Japanese food. There are well over 100,000 ramen restaurants throughout Japan, which can be found at street carts, stands, dives or at the ramen-ya restaurants where the best quality ramen are sold. Regional styles and ramen specialties vary according to local ingredients, tastes, and cultures.

 What is ramen? 

Two of the main ingredients in authentic ramen are the hand-pulled noodles and slow-cooked broth. Tokio Ramen typically prepares their noodles by using wheat flour, egg, salt and hot water. The select noodles are based on their bounciness, their ability to cling to the broth and their texture in the mouth. The noodles should interact harmoniously with the other ingredients in the bowl. 

Tokio Ramen’s preparation of their broth is labor-intensive and takes approximately 12 hours or more from start to finish. Some of the stock is based on chicken or pork combined with a variety of ingredients. There are four categories for the broth base: soy sauce (Shoyu), salt (Shio), miso (fermented bean paste) and pork (Tonkatsu). The noodles cook separately from all the other ingredients. The noodles are added to the broth and toppings are the last step.

Toppings are another component of ramen and are typically a variety of proteins (roasted pork, chicken, shrimp, eggs) and vegetables (corn, bean sprouts, spinach, scallions, seaweed). The final touch to the ramen are the various condiments set at the tables that guests can add themselves; togarashi (Japanese chili powder), as well as rayu (a spicy oil), just to name a couple. At Tokio Ramen you can request the amount or level of spice and salt you desire.

Chef Tanaka has adapted the Japanese traditional flavors for the Peruvian tastes. Classic Japanese ramen dishes exist at Tokio Ramen as well as several fusion plates. Peruvian ingredients are used as well as imported Japanese ingredients.

Decor 

The decor at the new Miraflores location is both sophisticated and comfortable. From the black glossy tables, rich earth tones, sophisticated grey chairs and booths, to the muted lighting. The restaurant has distinct seating areas: intimate tables for two on the left side with strands of ropes suspended from the ceiling, tables for four in the middle and seating for larger groups on the right. There is also a bar to sit at to watch the action. A couple video screens flash scenes of Japan as well as the preparation of the dishes served at Tokio Ramen. 

The menu

The menu at Tokio Ramen has accompanying photos of each dish that is offered. This makes it much easier to make a decision when ordering. The advice when eating ramen is to eat the solid ingredients first and drink the broth last so you don’t fill up on the broth. 

Menu options from Monday-Friday (until 4pm) offer a choice of a main dish with a small ramen (S/ 27-42). 

Starters

We opted for the Gyoza Frita (S/ 17) instead of their steamed version. These five dumplings are filled with pork, green onion and cabbage then fried. They are served with a special soy sauce with a few drops of a spicy oil (rayu). This is definitely one of the most popular starters at Tokio Ramen. 

The Kaisen Salad (S/ 29) is a new addition to the menu at Tokio Ramen. We thoroughly enjoyed the combination of lettuce, grated carrot, shrimp, tuna, cucumber slices, and surimi (imitation crab) all topped off with fried wonton strips which adds another texture. The dressing that is served with this salad is an addictive mixture of sesame oil, sesame seeds, sugar and a touch of soy sauce. 

Ramens

Our hands-down favorites of the four ramen dishes we sampled are actually recent additions to the Tokio Ramen menu. The Dry Tomato Ramen (Sopa Seca Japonesa), S/ 35 is quite unique because this ramen has no broth. What it does offer is an abundance of flavor once you thoroughly mix together the ramen noodles, ground pork, aromatic curry, grated cheddar and mozzarella cheese, chopped green onions, sprouts and seaweed. The key to enjoying this dish is to mix all of the ingredients together. Do not eat them separately. This is a standout dish and we devoured it at our table. 

Another new favorite is the Red Hot Chili Tokio (S/ 35 medium size, S/ 45 large). This ramen has a spicy kick to it. This chicken and pork broth with a salt base along with ramen noodles, both ground pork and roasted pork (Chasiu), egg, Japanese mushrooms (kikurage), spinach, green onions and seaweed is a wonderful ramen delight. This is probably my personal favorite. 

The last two ramen dishes mentioned here are also delicious, but more typical and classic styles compared to the first two I mentioned above. The Tokio Original (S/ 28 medium size, S/ 36 large) is a recommendation if you are new to ramen. This version has a pork and chicken broth with a salt base, noodles, roasted pork, egg, Japanese mushrooms, green onions and seaweed. I find the pork that Tokio Ramen uses to be excellent. The Langostino Fusion (S/ 28 medium size, S/ 39 large) is a lovely option if you are a shrimp lover. This ramen has a pork and chicken broth with a soy base, noodles, shrimp, sautéed vegetables, roasted pork, egg, bean sprouts, green onions and dried seaweed. 

Enthusiastic diners should make sure to wear the bibs that Tokio Ramen offers when eating ramen. I find ramen to be soul-warming, but also wonderfully messy. 

Main dishes

There are seven main dishes on the menu and they either contain chicken or pork. We sampled two of the chicken dishes. The Chicken Teriyaki (S/ 31) is one of the top sellers at Tokio Ramen. The chicken breast is first fried then brushed with Tokio Ramen’s special teriyaki sauce. It is then topped with a generous amount of sesame seeds and served on top of a bed of rice. A generous salad and a hard-boiled egg accompany this dish.

The Chicken Katsu Kare (S/ 36) is a chicken breast cutlet covered in panko breadcrumbs, fried and then bathed with a generous amount of the katsu (sweet and sour Japanese curry sauce) and accompanied by rice and a salad. 

Refreshing Desserts

For something both refreshing and quite unique, you should not miss the Mochi ice cream (S/ 15). Mochi ice cream is a small, round confection consisting of a soft, pounded sticky rice dumpling (mochi) formed around an ice cream filling. We shared the matcha (green tea) as well as the lucuma flavor. It’s hard to resist this dessert especially due to its texture.

We also enjoyed the Mr. MatCha brand ice creams. The Madagascar Vanilla flavor is rich and pure vanilla pleasure. The green tea flavor was underwhelming compared to that fabulous vanilla. If they have the ginger or black sesame flavors available, do not pass those up. They are incredible. 

Keep calm and eat ramen! 

Tokio Ramen

Calle Coronel Inclán 235 (Local 3), Miraflores

Phone:  644-9546

Instagram 

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Parking available inside garage 

Hours:  Monday-Saturday 12:30pm-3:30pm and 6:30 pm-10:30 pm; Sunday 1pm-4pm and 6:30pm-10:30pm

Capacity:  Approximately 50

Starters:  S/ 17-22

Salads:  S/ 22-29

Ramen:  S/ 21-36 (medium portion); S/ 34-48 (large portion) 

Main dishes:  S/ 25-37

Additional Ingredients:  S/ 2-8

Non-alcoholic beverages:  S/ 5-8

Japanese beer:  S/ 16

Sake:  S/ 25

All photos: Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Tokio Ramen se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Authentic samosas, naan and so much more. Zaika is the latest Indian food restaurant to open in Lima, and we sampled a variety of plates from their extensive menu.

There is no doubt that the culinary scene in Lima has changed and evolved over the years. A decade ago, it was difficult to find food that was not Peruvian, Italian, Chinese or Japanese. Nowadays, the options have significantly multiplied making many foodies quite happy. Zaika, Indian Restaurant and Hookha bar is the most recent Indian restaurant that has opened in this big city. We were happy to discover that Zaika offers a wide selection of authentic Indian food. The owner, Pawan, is an Indian national himself, and he works with a team of trained cooks that include Indian nationals as well. Having lived in Asia for many years and a self-declared Indian food lover, my expectations were running high.

Zaika is a two-floor restaurant located on the busy Calle Berlin in Miraflores. The first floor is occupied by the restaurant, while the second is more of a lounge and hookah bar (or hubbly bubbly as it is also known). The restaurant is spacious, luminous, and personalized with Indian decorations here and there. There is also a large TV from where Indian songs can be heard.

The menu at Zaika is extensive and you will find all the typical Indian dishes and more. For those not interested in going ‘exotic,’ there is a section in the menu listing a few traditional Peruvian dishes.

In India you cannot go a meal without having naan, the typical Indian flat bread baked in a tandoori (the Asian round-shaped oven). Naan goes with everything and is a staple in Indian cuisine. At Zaika, they have a number of tandooris from which wonderful naans, rotis (unleavened flat flour bread) and other delicacies are prepared. On this occasion, we tried several types of naans (S/ 6-8): plain, butter, garlic, sesame, chickpeas, carrots and cilantro, white sesame, black sesame, and lemongrass. They were all fantastic, quite crispy and flavorful. The chickpea naan deserves a special mention due to its particular texture and magnificent flavors. We also tried one of their rotis, the roti rumali (S/ 8). Similar to a crepe, it is basically used as a wrap or to help you grab your food. I recommend you try the bread basket combo (S/ 30) that gives you the chance to try a variety of their naans and rotis.

There is a good selection of appetizers and snacks at Zaika. We had the samosas (S/ 20), a well-known deep fried pastry filled with chicken, onion and spices. The samosas were crispy, very juicy, and full of flavor; they were simply delicious. 

We also tried the Hot and sour soup (S/ 12). This was a big bowl filled with chicken, noodles, vegetables and red pepper. The soup was very tasty and wonderfully spicy. We loved it. We also had the Chicken tikka (S/ 25), that consisted of several spicy boneless chicken pieces roasted in a tandoori served with a green cilantro sauce on the side. The chicken had all the Indian flavors one can imagine, and it was so tasty that it needed no sauce. The Mutton seekh kabab (S/ 28), consisting of several pieces of roasted minced lamb served with onions and cucumbers, was also nice and tasty.

At Zaika the choice of main dishes is quite large. Here you will find grilled meat dishes, stews and vegetarian options. We tried the Chicken massala (S/ 34), a wonderful spicy stew with tender chicken pieces; Mutton rogan ghosh (S/ 36), tender lamb pieces in red chili sauce that was awesome; and Chana Massala (S/ 24), a chickpea stew cooked with onions and tomatoes that was amazingly flavorful—a dish not to be missed.

Lentils in India are another staple food and there is quite a variety of them: red, orange, yellow, black and other colors in the market. At Zaika, we tried the yellow and the black lentils, ideal dishes for our vegetarian and vegan readers.

We found both versions, the Daal tadka (S/ 25) with yellow lentils and the Daal makani (S/ 28) with black lentils, to be exquisitely creamy and amazingly flavorful. We couldn’t get enough of these, in particular the first one. You can eat these alone, with your favorite naan or you can also order some Jeera rice (rice with cumin), that is also a nice compliment for any of your dishes.

Dessert

There are few available traditional Indian dessert options. On this occasion, we tried the Raj bog (S/ 12), several sweet cheese balls with saffron and pistachios soaked in rose syrup; the Fire gulab jamun (S/ 14), several small flour-based sweet balls soaked in rum or pisco; the Gajar ka halwa (S/ 16), a milk and carrot-based dessert with cashews that was deliciously creamy and flavorful, and became our favorite; and the Motichoor rabdi parfait (S/12), another milk-based creamy dessert served with rose petal syrup and nuts that was enjoyable too.

Drinks

In India, you cannot go a day without a lassi, the wonderful yogurt-based refreshment. We tried three flavors: sweetened, strawberry and mango. Unfortunately, they were far from the ones I’ve had in Asia and even in Peru, the reason being the quality of the yogurt itself. Our host acknowledged our comment and remarked that he is working on a new yogurt provider.

At Zaika there is also a selection of cocktails and beers. We tried some of their Indian cocktails, namely, the Pink City (S/ 35), made with Kahlua, vodka, rum, pineapple and grenadine; the Himalaya (S/ 35), a mint-based cocktail with vodka, passion fruit and pineapple (too sweet for my taste); and the Virgo Special (S/35), a drink prepared with Asti and rum that was enjoyable. Note that until the end of October, there is a 25% discount on drinks.

An interesting feature is the hookah bar on the second floor where you can really relax and enjoy your drinks and snacks while puffing every now and then from these long and exotic water pipes. There is a whole range of tobacco flavors that you can choose from. The rate is S/ 40 for a couple of hours.

Final remarks

Zaika was a pleasant surprise. I found the flavors to be quite authentic, pleasantly spicy and full of flavor. Portions are big and the prices are good so you cannot ask for more.

Zaika

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Calle Berlín 337, Miraflores

Telephone: 307-9614

Opening hours: Monday to Thursday 12pm-5pm, 6:30pm-11pm; Friday to Sunday 12pm-5pm, 7pm-12am

Parking – yes

Appetizers – S/ 15-32

Breads – S/ 4-12

Soups – S/ 12-16

Main dishes – S/ 24–36

Cocktails – S/ 18-35

Refreshments – S/ 5-14

Desserts – S/ 10-20

Delivery – yes

Photos: Marco Simola/Traveling & Living in Peru

La entrada Restaurant Review: Zaika se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Looking to dine gluten free in Lima? Matria, located in Miraflores, offers a fresh and modern menu with plenty of options for those with celiac disease.

What do you do when you have so many choices that you can’t decide? Order lots of half plates!

At Matria in Lima, half plates of many dishes can be ordered, even the starters. Chef Arlette Eulert explained: “Some people just want a small portion, but mostly they choose half plates so that they can sample plenty of dishes.”

Though there are three huge murals painted on the wall, Matria is rustic in décor with exposed mortared brickwork and unpainted cement; somehow it still has a warm, relaxed and friendly feeling.

Matria is owned by Chef Arlette Eulert. Having graduated from Le Cordon Bleu she worked in London and Barcelona then in some of the top restaurants in Lima before opening Matria six years ago. In 2018 she received the Summum award for the best female chef in Peru.

Arlettte describes her style of cooking as “product cuisine” because she is strongly influenced by the Peruvian ingredients available seasonally that she sources from small producers in many different regions of Peru. The seasonal menu that we enjoyed was the Primavera (Spring) menu, available until December 12, 2019.

The menu at Matria is clearly marked for food allergies and dietary preferences. Spoilt for choice we chose three starters to share from the six gluten free starters on the menu.

The Estiradito de Lenguado palteado (S/ 43) was the only cold dish we chose. Tiradito, our preference over the better-known ceviche, is also uncooked fish. However the fish is finely sliced instead of cubes and is therefore more delicate than ceviche. The lenguado was bathed in a delicious cream of avocado sauce and garnished with toasted quinoa.

The scallops we enjoyed were not on the menu. The scallops on the menu are not gluten free, but on request you can have a special gluten free scallop dish, served in their shells with a sauce of slow caramelized black garlic, squid ink, dehydrated yucca and black chili. This special order took no longer than the other dishes and was one of our favorites.

In Peru it is almost compulsory to start a meal with pisco. But at Matria we found a new way to enjoy pisco: cooking mussels in it! Mejillones salteado en aromas de pisco (S/ 33) was so good that once we had eaten the mussels from the shell we used an empty half shell to scoop out the rest of the broth.

The mild flavored Tosta de Morcilla (blood sausage) (S/ 22) was served warm on gluten free toast with a fried quail’s egg on top. One slice of toast was not enough to share the generous serving of morcilla so we finished it with rice crackers. The quail’s egg added visual appeal to the dish but was more of a novelty (and yes we did eat half a quail’s egg each!).

Moving on to mains, the menu had 8 gluten free choices. We chose Paiche al estilo “Malai Masala” (S/ 65). Paiche is an enormous fish found in the Amazon. It is the second largest fish in the world and can grow up to three meters long and weigh over 250 kg. It yields 60 kg of edible meat and is highly valued in Peru. It has a mild taste and flakes somewhat similar to cod. It was served with a spicy red curry sauce, seasonal vegetables and rice cooked in coconut milk.

Our second choice was Seco Criollo de Cabrilla (S/ 59). Treated like seafood, this was an unusual way to serve baby goat with mussels, clams and a scallop accompanied by yucca chips and rice with choclo.  

Both mains had overly generous sauce. Serving with rice enabled us to enjoy more of the sauces. Sharing the two half plate mains after the four starters was plenty.

Desert was Amor de Chocolate. Flavored with cacao from the Amazon, the delicate chocolate pudding was served hot in a mini Le Creuset pot. Think lava cake without the lava. A ball of rich chocolate ice cream compensated for the lack of ‘lava.’

It is a rare find to have so many exciting choices when eating gluten free in Lima. My husband, who does not need to eat gluten free, definitely also enjoyed our choices. We would strongly recommend Matria for anyone looking for a special gluten free menu.

Matria

General Manuel Mendiburu 823, Miraflores

Lunch: Monday to Saturday from 12:30pm to 4:00pm; Sunday 12:30pm to 5:00pm

Dinner: Monday to Thursday from 7:30pm to 11:00pm; Friday and Saturday 7:30pm to 11:30pm

Full serve prices: Starters: S/ 22–43; Mains: S/ 40–68

All photos: Alan Riles

La entrada Eating Gluten Free in Lima: Matria se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Dig in to large portions of chaufas, aeropuertos and lomo saltados at Doomo Saltado, a popular restaurant in Lince with a big heart for social responsibility.

Doomo Saltado, now a highly popular restaurant in Lince, opened its doors in 2012. The name is a play on the Japanese phrase doomo arigato (thank you very much) and the Spanish term for sauteed (saltado). The sautéed dishes are prepared one by one in the kitchen for the sake of quality. Doomo has a wide variety of chaufas, aeropuertos and lomo saltados, all to be topped with your favorite ingredients and accompaniments. They also offer Japanese dishes which should come as no surprise as the owner and manager, Edinho Hayashida, comes from a Japanese family that settled in Peru decades ago.

Edinho, a third generation Japanese-Peruvian, has definitely made of Doomo a successful restaurant that cares about its customers, the environment and social well-being. Doomo’s high dose of social responsibility has found an alliance with Enseña Peru, an NGO that promotes quality education, and Sinba, an NGO that collects leftovers from restaurants and processes them; two strategic partners that benefit many Peruvians.

Located on a corner of a busy street in Lince, Doomo Saltado has a fairly large and spacious locale. Edinho mentioned that he wants to make sure customers feel comfortable moving around and talking without the neighbors listening to their conversation. He adds he wants to make sure the property is inclusive and that people with disabilities, for example, are able to move around.

The decoration is modern and minimalistic with black and brown tones largely predominating. A bar stands at the entrance along with a small shop with merchandise, origami frames and Japanese snacks and drinks. Fifteen percent of what is sold is donated to Enseña Peru.

Starters and Main Dishes

The menu at Doomo is large and so are their portions. One of the most popular dishes is the Papas maestras (S/ 18). This is a huge portion of crispy fried yellow potatoes mixed with fried pancetta, covered in an abundant amount of cheddar and Chinese sauce, and topped with a fried egg. This dish was luscious, decadent and quite rich; perhaps not my kind of food, but my colleagues devoured it and loved it. This dish easily feeds two or more hungry people, and by ordering it, you contribute towards a child’s education.

After this heavy start, we tried a lighter option: one of their salads. We had the Salad Doomo (S/ 23), a large bowl filled with lettuce, carrots, red peppers, avocado, fried wontons and sautéed shrimp. While the salad is nothing innovative, the flavor of the shrimp was excellent.

Several types of soups are available, including ramen, however we opted for the house favorite: the Okinawa soup (S/ 30). This was another big bowl filled with a wonderful concoction of hen, pork and dashi (Japanese soup stock) broth, plenty of delicious homemade soba noodles, veggies, ginger, egg, kamaboko (fish cake) and pancetta. The soup was full of flavor with pleasant notes of ginger. I also enjoyed the soba noodles very much as they were fresh and al dente while the pancetta was tasty as could be. You can order half a portion which is very convenient in case you want to try other dishes.

The chaufas and aeropuertos are quite popular at Doomo, with chicken, meat, pork, shrimp and vegetarian options. We had the Aeropuerto Nikkei (S/ 30), a large dish of fried rice mixed with pancetta, chicken, meat, moyashi (Japanese bean), veggies, fried tortilla and fried ramen noodles; it was pretty good. However, the star at Doomo is certainly the Lomo saltado. Once again, customers may choose their ingredients and accompaniments, such as risotto, ají de gallina, spaghetti and causa among others. We tried the classic Lomo saltado (S/ 27 with cuadril, and up to S/ 37 if lomo fino, or tenderloin, is used) and the Tacu tacu con Lomo saltado a lo pobre (S/ 36), the classic rolled bean and rice mix, and fried plantains. I enjoyed the tacu tacu more than the Lomo saltado as I found the meat to be dry and overcooked. I recommend you specify to the waiter how you like your meat being cooked.

If you like Japanese food, Doomo has all that you could want: nigiris, sashimi, makis and more. We tried two types of makis: the Acevichado and the Kai maki (S/ 18 for 5 pieces, S/ 28 for 10 pieces). Both were quite good, but I definitely liked the latter with crab meat and parmiggiano that gave you a spicy kick at the end.

Desserts

There are a few desserts at Doomo for those with a sweet-tooth. We had the Tempura ice cream (S/ 18), two spheres of crunchy dough filled with a wonderful vanilla ice cream, sprinkled with chocolate fudge that was fantastic; difficult to let your spoon down. We also had the Chocolate cake with ice cream (S/ 16) that was nice as the cake was moist and the fudge was not overly sweet. Portions are big so consider sharing your dessert.

Drinks

There is a nice selection of beverages, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic, as well as iced teas (classic, red fruits, mango and lemongrass). We tried the Mía iced tea (S/ 9) made with goldenberry fruit, mandarine and pineapple that was highly enjoyable. For those that want some alcohol, you will find Japanese beers and all kinds of cocktails with whiskey, rum, gin and pisco. We tried their Pineapple and passion fruit (S/ 21), a cocktail made with Zacapa rum and plenty of pineapple bits that was refreshing and amazing; a not to be missed cocktail as you will enjoy it till the end. The Red fruit chilcano (S/ 18) with pisco, and the Johnny ginger red (S/ 18) were also quite pleasant, but difficult to surpass the Pineapple and passion fruit cocktail.

Final remarks

Doomo was quite an experience. Not only was the food quite good, but the service was reasonably fast, and the portions are certainly good value for money. We were deeply impressed by the commitment and passion shown by the owner and manager to create an enjoyable customer experience while contributing to making this world a better place. Kudos to Doomo, and we look forward to their future location in Surco!

Doomo Saltado

Av. Ignacio Merino 2501, Lince

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Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 12pm-10:30pm; Sunday, 12pm-6pm

Delivery: Glovoo, Doomo Saltado

Menu

Starters: S/ 14 -21

Salads: S/ 15 – 23

Soups: S/ 15 (medium), S/.18 (large)

Makis: S/ 18 (5 pcs), S/ 28 (10 pcs)

Nigiris and sashimis: S/ 10 – 28

Poke Bowls: S/ 28 – 30

Lomo saltados: S/ 27 – 39

Chaufas and Aeropuertos: S/. 26 – 32

Desserts: S/ 16 – 18

Cocktails: S/ 16 – 30

Beers: S/ 8 – 22

Refreshments and hot beverages: S/ 5 – 10

Cover photo: Kai makis/Marco Simola

All photos: Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: Doomo Saltado se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

With an updated menu (including raclette, for cheese lovers) and outdoor patio, Las Bolena continues to be an elegant and ideal spot for brunch or tea with pastries.

The first time the team of Traveling and Living in Peru stepped inside Las Bolena TeaRoom & Restaurant was in March of 2016 (a month after they opened). Since that time, I have been a somewhat regular customer here. I also met one of my best friends at Las Bolena several years ago, so I also have sentimental feelings when I dine here. 

Fast forward well over three years and the food at Las Bolena continues to be delicious and the prices are still moderately reasonable. Though the menu has been updated and revised, you can still enjoy their late afternoon tea time as well as lunch and dinner. Now Las Bolena has a varied weekend breakfast and brunch menu which is continuing to grow in popularity. 

Brief History

The name of the restaurant is inspired by the extravagance and grandeur of the 16th century sisters and aristocrats, Anne and Mary Boleyn. The owners of Las Bolena are the sibling duo, Alvaro Cornejo and Ana Lucia Cornejo. Ana Lucia previously studied hotel and tourism and gained several years of work experience in Europe. Alvaro is the executive chef at Las Bolena and is a graduate of the Cordon Bleu in Lima. He has worked in several other Lima restaurants as well as the Ritz Carlton in Naples, Florida. Alvaro is also a partner and general manager of the newly opened, Porcus, in Miraflores.

Decor and Premises

Las Bolena is situated in a restored home and the entire premises are elegant both inside and outside. The original main dining areas on the first floor are distinctly different. The one dining room is abundant with gorgeous floral wallpaper, crystal chandeliers, and a view of the gardens. Many people refer to this room as the “girly” area because of its popularity among mothers and daughters, women enjoying tea and baby showers.

The other room is more sober and refined in decor. There is now another elegant dining area available on the second floor as well, which is ideal for private groups. The charming and spacious outdoor terrace and patio area has recently been revamped and now has intimate and comfortable seating for up to 35 people. As always, this area is dog-friendly. 

Cocktails and Beverages

We began with a light refreshing cocktail named Bramble, a concoction of Citadelle Gin from France, raspberry liqueur, and lime. Besides this cocktail, Las Bolena offers both classic and house cocktails (a few prepared with tea), as well as an array of gin and tonics, wines, spritzes, and beer. Refreshing non-alcoholic beverages are also available. One of my favorite cocktails prepared at Las Bolena is the Tea Tonic prepared with Bombay Sapphire Gin, tonic, and Grandma’s Garden Tea (a fruit infusion of strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, raisin, apple and flowers). 

Teas remain a big part of the success at Las Bolena and they continue to offer at least 30 varieties of teas (flavored green teas, black teas, fruit and herbal infusions). All of their teas are available hot or iced. Part of the charm and glamour of Las Bolena is receiving your tea in one of their many antique teapots and china sets. Daily tea is served from 4pm-7pm and can be enjoyed with their special tea time menu. 

Food

There are approximately 24 brunch options available, ranging from sweet to savory. 

We began with the sweet options. The Waffle Belga (S/ 20) is very impressive with its stacked layers of waffles (four), interspersed with thin apple slices that have been sautéed in cinnamon, sugar and butter. There are three waffle options as well as four pancake selections available. 

There are two french toast options available.The Tostadas Francesas Clásica (S/ 19) is an absolute delight! Two thick slices of brioche bread (made on the premises) bathed in a delicious egg batter are fried until slightly crispy and perfectly cooked. The warm French toast is then served with a light dusting of powdered sugar, maple syrup, sliced seasonal fruit, berries, whipped cream stars, mint and a beautiful flower. This is one of the best versions of French toast I’ve had in Lima. Spectacular simplicity. 

The Shakshuka (S/ 22) at Las Bolena is highly satisfying. This is a wonderful version of the popular North African dish. A cast iron pan of two eggs poached in a robust and aromatic tomato sauce prepared with cumin, peppers, garlic, olive oil, bold Calabrese pork sausage, herbs, and spices and accompanied by house-made rustic toasts. The sauce is so good that you may want to request extra toasts for dipping. 

I was eager to sample the Waffle de Pollo Crocante (S/ 23). It was simply amazing! Two crisp waffles topped off with a generous portion of fried chicken breast which proved to be crunchy on the outside and moist inside. The batter contains flour, cumin, paprika, garlic, salt, and oregano. This dish is served with maple syrup. I enjoy savory and sweet combination dishes and this totally met all of my expectations. 

Speaking of brunch, a few of my other personal favorites for brunch options at Las Bolena would also be their Croque Madame: a grilled ham and cheese sandwich served with white country bread, topped off with grated cheese, a white sauce and a fried egg. Their Huevos Benedicto are always a hit as well. Las Bolena also offers Bottomless Mimosas (S/ 65) on their brunch menu. 

Occasionally the menu at Las Bolena changes slightly to add new items and move out dishes that might not be as popular. One of the new additions is the Tagliatelle Huancaino con Lomo al Jugo (S/ 41). This is a very satisfying alternative version of lomo saltado. Juicy pieces of beef tenderloin are sautéed with sliced onions and tomatoes and served alongside tagliatelle (long, flat egg pasta ribbons, similar to fettuccine) with the popular Peruvian yellow pepper (huancaina) sauce. Tagliatelle pasta is often used with beef dishes and ideal for this dish since the creamy sauce clings perfectly to this pasta. Be sure to let them know how you want your beef cooked. This is one of Las Bolena’s more popular main dishes. 

A newer option at Las Bolena that I highly recommend is the decadent, Raclette. This Swiss dish involves 200 grams of a semi-hard cheese (Gouda) which is slightly heated and melted then, using a special knife, scraped by the waitstaff over the cast iron skillet filled with slices of beef tenderloin, roasted potatoes, sautéed mushrooms and grilled asparagus. I shared (rather, devoured) this with a friend in August at Las Bolena. If you are a cheese fanatic, do not miss this dish! 

Last but not least: Desserts

There are over 15 desserts available at Las Bolena to enjoy. A few of my personal favorites are the Montblanc (S/ 23), a slightly crisp type of biscuit filled with Kirsch liqueur, a light foamy custard (sabayon) and Italian meringue. Their macarons (S/ 4), round French meringue-based confections made with egg whites, almond flour with a variety of different fillings, are wonderful as well. The scones (S/ 4) are delicious and authentic in flavor and go perfectly with tea. For a variety, you can order the Gourmand (S/ 29), which includes three desserts of your choice along with tea or coffee. 

With the Lima weather continuing to warm up, I foresee a brunch on Las Bolenas’s outdoor patio along with my dog in tow in the near future. 

Las Bolena TeaRoom & Restaurant

Av. Reducto 1290, Miraflores 

Phone:  683-2493

Instagram, Facebook 

Reservations accepted 

Seating capacity: approximately 55 inside and 35 outside 

Private areas/reservations available: inforeserva@lasbolena.com.pe

Hours: 

Monday–Friday, 12pm-10:30pm; Saturday:  9am-10:30pm; Sunday:  9am-9pm. 

Brunch Menu (available weekends and some holidays)

Brunch items/dishes:  S/ 4-33

Coffee:  S/ 7-10

Non-alcoholic beverages:  S/ 12-16

Beverages with alcohol:  S/ 18-25

Bottomless Mimosas:  S/ 65 (for 2 hours)

Regular Menu:

Starters:  S/ 15-28

Sandwiches:  S/ 18-27

Salads:  S/ 25-28

Main dishes (beef, chicken, fish, pasta):  S/ 15-48

Raclette:  S/ 68 per person

Desserts:  S/ 4-29

Pancakes/Waffles/French Toast:  S/ 17-25

Non-alcoholic beverages:  S/ 6-16

Piqueos/Bar Menu:  S/ 16-28

Beer:  S/ 16

Cocktails:  S/ 21-29

Gin & Tonics:  S/ 28-36

Wine & Sparkling Wine:  S/ 22-24 (per glass) 

                                        S/ 98-156 (bottle)

Teas:  S/ 12-14 (per teapot, 30 varieties) 

Tea Menu (from 4pm-7pm. daily):

Royal Tea: S/ 82 (includes 6 mini sandwiches, 4 scones, 6 mini desserts, 1 pot of tea) 

Grand Royal Tea:  S/ 99 (same as Royal Tea + 2 glasses sparkling wine) 

Cover photo: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

La entrada Restaurant Review: Las Bolena TeaRoom & Restaurant se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Seafood dishes and a memorable chirimoya dessert take center stage during this celiac-friendly visit to the contemporary restaurant, Lima 27.

A long established restaurant, Lima 27 has been in its San Isidro location for ten years. The adjoining tapas restaurant, 27 Tapas, opened in 2016. We thought there may be some significant or sentimental reason for the 27 in the name, but it’s actually a reference to the district postcode. 

Chef Carlos Testino describes his cuisine as “Peruvian with modern techniques to create unique textures and flavors…a cuisine for the senses: sight, smell, taste and texture.” 

One of the advantages of eating gluten free in Peru in restaurants that specialize in using indigenous Peruvian ingredients is that they do not have to change the dishes for those who need to eat gluten free. There are a total of 25 gluten free starters and mains on the menu at Lima 27, with several more that can easily be modified to become gluten free on request. The extensive menu, available in Spanish and English, goes above and beyond by presenting naïve illustrations to explain many of the dishes. 

As Felix, the Captain of Waiters, handed me my rather generous pisco sour he said with a grin, “One pisco sour is good, two maybe, but three and you go to sleep!”

Something to start

Our first choice was Tiradito de Paiche (S/48). Served on a bed of cashew milk, fine slices of the huge Amazonian fish paiche were cured in airampo, a red cactus flower native to the Cusco area, once used for its medicinal properties. This gave the paiche its unusual red color. The paiche was topped with percebes (gooseneck barnacles), a rare crustacean from the north of Peru. This was a real treat for my husband as they are a particular favorite of his and we had not found them outside of Spain before. He devoured them with enthusiasm.  

The dish was garnished with dehydrated sacha culantro-wild cilantro leaves, another medicinal herb, which added a crisp texture.

Mar & Rio

The fish of the day was Charela, accompanied by large shrimp from rivers near Arequipa and pistachio butter (Pesca del dia y camarones, S/69). The seafood was served with a side of cauliflower on top of cauliflower purée. Nut butters and vegetable purées are a flavorful, safe alternative to sauces based on a roux containing flour for gluten free meals.

Finely grated parmesan cheese was charred black giving it a smokey flavor. Chicken velouté, served in a natural shell, was poured over the dish with a flourish by Felix. 

An impressive dish but probably best served for one rather than sharing, as we did.

We then shared the Tartare de Langostinos y Cangrejo (S/54), a mound of prawn and crab filled avocado sitting on a romesco sauce. There was so much avocado it seemed to overshadow the prawn and crab tartare. However the tiny rings of shallots that had been steeped in beetroot and ginger vinegar added an acidity to the blandness of the avocado. Most vinegars, except for malt vinegar, are safe for celiacs. It was also served with smoked artichoke and a light ginger cream. A light dusting of dehydrated mushroom powder surrounded the tartare. The saffron paper added a whimsical flare.

Dessert

Desserts are often a neglected course for gluten free diners so we were disappointed, at first, that there was only one gluten free dessert option on the menu. But wow—I could have eaten three servings of the Marinated cherimoya (S/25) it was so good. Served with a spiral of manjar, the sweetness of this custard apple dessert was tempered by the inclusion of tart blueberries. Even the tiny mint leaves had an exceptionally strong flavor and freshened the potentially cloying sweetness of the manjar. It was served with a quenelle of chocolate ice cream. The flavor combination was well balanced, both sweet and tart with the shards of meringue adding a crispness to the otherwise soft dessert. It is definitely on my list of the best gluten free desserts in Lima.

Lima 27

Calle Santa Louisa 295, San Isidro

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Reservations

Appetizers: S/44-59

Salads: S/43-49

Mains: S/39-145 Note: Some dishes are for sharing

Desserts: S/25 (Gluten Free ) (Others: S/24-28)

Open:    Monday to Saturday  12:30pm–4pm, 7:30pm-11pm    

La entrada Eating Gluten Free in Lima: Lima 27 se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

An authentic French patisserie in a bustling area of Miraflores? La Raffinerie is full of charm and surprises. Read more about our recent visit.

Eclairs, croissants, pain au chocolat, cream puffs, brioche, tartelettes, choux, macarons, quiche—oh my! La Raffinerie is about authentic flavors, high-quality ingredients, beautifully decorated pastries, great attention to detail and deliciousness. 

I enjoyed my visit so much to La Raffinerie a couple weeks ago that I purchased many of their desserts (four boxes) to share with guests at my house. I doubt they expected authentic French pastries in Peru, but they were pleasantly surprised. 

La Raffinerie just celebrated its one-year anniversary on November 20th. It is located in a very busy area among hotels, tourists and offices in the district of Miraflores—which should be a plus for their business. This delightful cafe was full of pleasant surprises. 

The group of owners at La Raffinerie is an enthusiastic bunch of young, talented and passionate individuals. We spoke a great deal with Antoine Minguillon, the general manager who hails from Toulouse, France, the day of our visit. The chef, Pacome, is a Bordeaux native; Christian is half French (Bordeaux) and half Peruvian and Elena is originally from Russia. 

Choux

The pastries at La Raffinerie must be highlighted first because they made the biggest impression on me. I may be addicted to the choux at La Raffinerie. These airy, round cream puffs are decadent and luxurious. Choux is a light pastry dough which is used in many pastries. It contains only water, butter, flour and eggs. Instead of using an active raising agent, it uses high moisture content to create steam during the cooking in order to puff up the pastry. La Raffinerie has several choux options to choose from: Madagascar vanilla, lucuma, mango and maracuya, chirimoya and praline. All were exquisite but my favorite was the pastry cream with Madagascar vanilla choux.

Eclairs

In the case of the eclairs it’s hard to choose a favorite. These oblong pastries are also made with choux dough and filled with a cream and then iced. La Raffinerie offers various fillings and icings. You can choose from the fresa con mascarpone (strawberry with mascarpone), caramel, Café, and the chocolate con avellanas (chocolate with hazelnuts). We sampled several and our absolute favorite was the chocolate with hazelnuts. It was a flavor revelation and probably one of the best eclairs I have eaten in my life. Both the chocolate and hazelnuts they use are high quality. 

While each eclair costs S/ 10, La Raffinerie offers a Combo Dulce, sweet combo, for S/ 15: the eclair of the day plus a cappuccino.  

Macarons

We were also happy to indulge in the various macarons of which there are currently eight flavors: lucuma, limón-albahaca (Tahiti lime and basil), rosa (rose), violeta (violet), azahar (Peruvian orange blossom water), chocolate 70%, choco-maracuya, and café. The team of Traveling and Living in Peru sampled the azahar and the violeta flavors. In the French city of Toulouse, one of their symbols is the violet (flor de violeta). It is also used in their gastronomy for marmalade, ice creams, caramels, etc. My personal favorites were the unique violet and the citrusy and refreshing Tahiti lime and basil macaron. I adore macarons and I ended up purchasing every flavor to enjoy at home. 

The violet flavor mentioned above is also used in a couple of other items at La Raffinerie. La Raffinerie prepares their own “secret” violet syrup for their macarons as well as for their Limonada de Violeta (S/ 8) and the Latte Violeta (S/ 12). We sampled both of these beverages and were intrigued by the slightly addictive violet flavor. The lemonade had just the right amount of violet syrup without being overwhelming. And who knew that violet could taste so good in a coffee beverage. 

Besides these beverages, we also sampled their moccachino and cappuccino. We also shared a new cold beverage menu item, Espresso Tonic. La Raffinerie uses 100% Peruvian coffee from Villa Rica. 

A must mention is the delicious Pye de limón (S/ 12), a lemon pie packed full of citrus flavor and creaminess, held in a delicious dough. Also the Tartelette Poire au Vin was incredible, the combination of pears with wine in this tart pleased the pear lover in me. 

Savory selection

Besides the delicious pastries at La Raffinerie, they also have a small selection of sandwiches, salads, focaccias, and toasts as well as breakfast options and specials.

The day of our visit we shared a Quiche Lorraine (S/ 13), a delicious traditional quiche prepared with egg, cheese and bacon. The four available quiches are all accompanied by a small salad. 

We also shared the Raffineur sandwich (S/ 15.50), a popular menu item with prosciutto, cheese, caramelized onions and tomato. All of the sandwiches are served on their sourdough bread. The Ensalada Raffineur was a bit underwhelming for me. Mixed lettuces, sun dried tomatoes, chopped Brazil nuts, avocado and balsamic dressing. This is available with trout or prosciutto for an extra S/ 5. I felt the salad could be a bit larger in size.

One of my personal favorites the day of our visit was the Croque Madame (S/ 16), a new addition that will soon be on their sandwich menu section. I can’t resist the combination of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich generously topped off with béchamel sauce and a fried egg on top of it all. Decadent and delicious. 

In the evening hours many people enjoy the Tablas (S/ 43.5-70), a variety of cheese and meat board options, some with breads, marmalade, pate, olives, quiches, focaccia, wines, etc. 

La Raffinerie will soon be offering several new menu options for the upcoming summer season. 

I love that La Raffinerie provides excellent quality pastries and they don’t skimp on high-quality ingredients and details. I will return soon. 

La Raffinerie

Av. 28 de Julio 393, Miraflores

Phone:  +51 777-8911

Reservations accepted

Capacity: approximately 30 inside, 25 outside

info@ffpatisserie.com 

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Facebook 

Hours:  Monday-Friday:  8am-10pm

             Friday- Saturday:  9am-10:30pm

             Saturday-Sunday:  9am-8pm

Quiches:  S/ 13

Focaccias:  S/ 11.5

Toasts:  S/ 15

Sandwiches:  S/ 12.5-16.5

Sandwich/Quiche Combos:  S/ 25-28

Salads:  S/ 20.5-22

French breakfast:  S/ 15

Hot beverages (coffee, tea, infusions, hot chocolate):  S/ 5-12

Cold beverages (coffee, milkshakes, iced tea, juices):  S/ 6-14

Macarons:  S/ 3.50 each, 6 for S/ 20, 12 for S/ 38

Choux:  S/ 8 each; three for S/ 22

Eclairs:  S/ 10 each; four for S/ 38

Tarts:  S/ 12

Mini cake:  S/ 5.5

Cake:  S/ 23.5

Combo Dulce:  S/ 15 (eclair del dia + cappuccino)

Brownies:  S/ 5 each

Pye de Limón:  S/ 12

Cannele:  S/ 6 each or 2 for S/ 10

Tablas (Cheese & Meat Boards/Platters):  S/ 43.50-70

Red & White Wines:  S/ 14-20 (a glass); S/ 65-95 (bottle)

Sparkling wines:  S/ 45-50 (bottle)

All photos: Marco Simola

La entrada Restaurant Review: La Raffinerie se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

The new Curador promises to become a favorite spot for wine and pisco aficionados in Lima. We stopped by for a visit and guided tasting. Here’s what we found.

We quickly learned that there was more to Curador than meets the eye as we walked in. Being both a store and bar, it has many details and features that will draw your attention and spark your curiosity.

We met with sommelier and restaurateur Andres Orellana, one of the co-founders of Curador, whom we met last year, when we visited La Niña.

He guided us through some of their wines and piscos and told us a little bit more about this new proposal.

Let’s break it down.

First impressions

It’s impossible to talk about Curador without first mentioning the place itself.

It is conviniently located in the heart of Miraflores, making it an ideal place to walk to from your hotel to spend an evening. Also, there are many other bars and restaurants nearby as well, including La Niña, in case you feel like doing some bar hopping later into the night.

The decor makes the most out of the restored Tudor style house, one of the few remaining in Miraflores. The designers leaned into its awkward shaped spaces to turn them into pieces of a cohesive visual experience.

The result is a cozy yet sophisticated design that merges bare industrial and classic bistro style references to create an intimate, even romantic, atmosphere.

A bar and store with private wine tastings and wine-centered events

Curador is both a wine bar and wine store. This means that you can stop by to pick up something special on your way to a dinner or weekend lunch (see opening hours below) or stay to taste their selection of over 120 different wines.

Their stock also includes some Peruvian distilled spirits such as pisco, caña alta, and distilled agave; and gourmet chocolate, coffee, and other things.

Aside from their Peruvian brands, they import products from Argentina, France, Italy, Spain, Chile and Uruguay (although Orellana would like more of the latter).

They are working on an event calendar cenetered around wine and spirits and anyone can request a private wine or pisco tasting experience.

Aside from Andres, the sommelier team includes Juan Carlos Tejada (Dominican Republic), Marcela Garcia de los Rios (Mexico), and Diego Cruz Gates (Peru).

What to expect from your visit to Curador

The sommeliers at Curador will ask about your preferences and suggest different flights (samples of selected wines or piscos) for you and your party based on your likes and budget.

Here’s what stood out for us:

Curador is a great place to get a real taste of what Peruvian wine producers are working on

Peruvian wine certainly has a long way to go before it can compete with other Latin American products. However, it is really worth getting to know how it is evolving and what local producers are putting forward.

That was what our first flight was about: a current selection of Peruvian wines (S/ 42).

Curador has 20 different wines from Peru, and the three that we sampled paint a clear picture of what is happening in the local production scene. Instead of trying to follow what other producers do in different regions, Peruvian producers are leaning into what sets them apart. And, in the process, they are discovering new profiles and a unique personality that is worth getting to know.

Here are the wines what we tried:

We started with a 2013 Torrontes by Saint Lizier (S/ 78 per bottle and S/ 18 per glass), from Palpa (Ica).

The first thing to notice is that this is not a young wine. It has the signature Torrontes aroma but a taste that has gracefully aged into something else. We found it earthy, with a flavor that lingers in your mouth.

The second one was a 2017 Quebrada de Ihuanco (S/ 95 per bottle S/ 22 per glass).

This was one of the first natural wines that used pisco varietals for wine, which adds a different layer to an already interesting product.

This wine is produced in the highlands of Cerro Azul, Cañete. The hard conditions of the area give this wine a very unique profile, one that according to Andres “speaks loudly of its terroir.”

Because it uses pisco grapes (quebranta to be more exact), which have a thinner skin than other varietals, the tannins are less astringent.

The third one was a 2019 Joyas de Murga (S/ 170 per bottle and S/ 40 per glass), which has delicate flavor for a red wine, with notes of strawberry and raspberry. Andres recommends enjoying it in the summer, after letting it chill for a bit.

If you are curious about organic and natural wines from Europe and Latin America, Curador also has an interesting selection

Our second flight was the Funky wine selection, which you can get for S/ 50.

Not only are they all natural wines but Pét-Nat at that as well, which stands for Pétillant Naturel.

This means that the wine is bottled before fully completing its first fermentation.

The process allows the natural sugars from the grapes to produce carbon dioxide, giving it a sparkling quality.

This flight included a Fedelie from Sicily, a rosé Nero D’Avola by Cantina Marilina (S/ 140 per bottle and S/ 35 per glass); a 2018 Mimo Blancas Criollas orange wine (S/ 170 per bottle and S/ 40 per glass), a white wine blend produced as a red wine; and a 2018 Jijiji by Gen Del Alma (S/ 155 per bottle). The interesting thing about Jijiji is that is not really a blend but a co-fermentation of Malbec and Pinot Noir grapes.

Tell your sommelier what you like and let them surprise you with some unique recommendations

After one of our reviewers mentioned her preference for white wine, Andres was kind enough to bring a third flight that included some of their “expressive whites”.

We tried a 2015 Joseph Drouhin Chardonnay from France (S/ 128 per bottle and S/ 30 per glass), a 2018 Malbec-Tanat rosé blend by Casa Petrini from Tupungato, Argentina (S/ 95 per bottle and S/ 35 per glass), a Terra Sur Sauvignon Franc (not currently in their menu).

Our last wine was a 2017 Poligonos Zuccardi Cabernet Franc (S/.220 per bottle and S/ 52 per glass).

But that was not all…

If you want to know more about pisco, you will not be disappointed

Regarding their pisco selection, Andres says they have “tried to cover the most interesting things produced in Moquegua, Arequipa, Tacna, and also Ica.” With that in mind, he chose some of his favorite piscos for us to try.

If you don’t know much about pisco, this is a great place to learn more about it and also to pick something to bring back home for friends and family.

We started with an Don Reynaldo Albilla (S/ 100), followed by a Limited Edition Honores Mosto Verde and Negra Criolla blend, from the valley of Majes in Arequipa.

The last one was a very sophisticated Bellavista Torontel (S/ 200) that had citrus and fruity notes.

You will also find very good (albeit limited) options of food to accompany your flights

We had a chance to try some of their tapas and signature dishes.

Curador has its own bakery, which is always a plus in our book no matter what.

A restaurant with its own bakery? 100% yes!

A pharmacy with its own bakery? Count us in!

An airport with its own bakery? We are onboard!

A stadium with its own bakery? Baguette me there now!

You get the idea…

Anyway, they also have a nice selection of Spanish hams and Peruvian cheese which are great to accompany any of your flights or pisco choices.

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Una publicación compartida por curadorlima (@curadorlima) el 30 de Oct de 2019 a las 5:49 PDT

Their signature main course is the carrillera con pure de pituca (beef cheek with puréed taro).

We found the meat was very soft and tasty. The gravy was also good but it was more on the tangy side. This made a very good complement for the meat but it also overpowered the more subtle flavor of the puréed taro in the background.

On the sweet side, we tried an apple tart with vanilla icecream that is great to share with someone right before moving on to some pisco tasting or finishing up the night.

Plan your visit to Curador

Address: Calle La Libertad 212 – 220, Miraflores.

Hours:

Tuesday thru Thursday from 4:00 pm to 12:00 pm.

Friday thru Saturday from 12:30m to 1:00 am.

Sundays from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm.

Contact:

Phone: +516912529

You can find them on Facebook, Instagram.

Cover photo: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

Don’t Miss:

Mercado 28: Experiencing Peru’s First Gastronomic Market

Pisco-pedia: The Essential Pisco Guide

La entrada Restaurant Review: Curador se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

With a Peruvian flair and plenty of surprises, 27 Tapas is not your ordinary tapas restaurant. Where else can you try almond tiger’s milk?

As the name suggests, 27 Tapas is a tapas restaurant serving traditional Spanish tapas but with a definite Peruvian flair. It is situated right next to the classic San Isidro restaurant, Lima 27.

As you enter the restaurant you walk straight into the well stocked bar. Here you will find all the usual drinks, but their specialty is unusually presented cocktails. Our choices tonight were no exception. The Chasqui Bag (S/32) is their newest cocktail. Basically a cocktail of pisco and lime shaken with crushed ice, it is presented in a chasqui bag and is described as a homage to the traditions of the chasqui message runners of the Incas who carried these small personal bags. Each bag is woven in a traditional Inca pattern. A further nod to tradition is the smoke of the purifying palo santo, an aromatic stick set alight just before you receive the cocktail.

Our second cocktail was the Pineapple Garden (S/32), a mixture of fermented pineapple cider, corn syrup, coffee grounds and herbs also shaken with crushed ice and beautifully decorated with nasturtiums and mint. The herbs all come from their own herb garden growing in front of the building.

People who must eat gluten free also need to be cautious drinking alcohol, especially mixed drinks, for non-disclosed gluten.

Sipping our cocktails, it was time to enjoy our gluten free tapas. Ceviche Almendrado (S/32) was made with the catch of the day. I’m afraid to admit in Peru that I’m not usually a big fan of ceviche. However this one I did enjoy. The almond tiger’s milk was different to the normal tiger’s milk you usually get with ceviche. It was subtle but still quite limey. It was served with tiny cubes of roasted avocado and slivered almonds giving the whole dish a more interesting texture. Served on a bed of crushed ice it was nicely chilled.

27 Tapa’s Tortilla española (S/30) was a surprise. We have eaten this many times in Spain where it is usually cooked slowly for a very long time until it is quite dry. This was cooked much less so was quite moist and the other flavors such as the soft onion all blended together pleasantly. 

Next we enjoyed Carpaccio de Sandia (S/18)–watermelon carpaccio. Yes, carpaccio is usually raw meat or fish but this is a refreshing summer version of roasted, thinly sliced watermelon that has been marinated in balsamic vinegar. Balsamic vinegar is one of the vinegars that can be eaten by someone on a gluten free diet. It was garnished with small cubes of feta cheese and sprouts from their garden. Served with thin slices of warmed gluten free lavosh style bread that was presented in a fun slotted rock.

Conchas brasas (S/22) was the dish I wished was not just served as a tapa, as they were so good I could have eaten a whole plate full! Bathed in spicy Peruvian chili butter, the scallops were cooked perfectly and delicious.

Our last tapa, and definitely the most filling, was Cacio e Pepe (S/28)– Parmesan risotto served with truffled egg yolk, mushrooms and erizo. If you try to translate erizo you will probably get hedgehog! Erizo de mar are actually sea urchins which are a delicacy in Spain and also found in the San Juan de Marcona area off the coast of Peru. The risotto was topped with light foam. Both being cheese addicts, my husband and I would have preferred a stronger cheese flavor in this dish, and the rice cooked a little softer.

During our meal we were treated to an energetic violin duo playing popular classics. Beginning at 9:30pm on Saturday nights there is live music alternating between jazz and popular classics, depending on the band playing that week. It is wise to go a bit early as it is popular and the restaurant soon fills.

There are only six choices of gluten free meals on the menu and not a single gluten free dessert option. We were happy with our choices but a bit distracted by some of the other creatively presented dishes as they were carried past. Obviously there were plenty of choices for the non-gluten free diners.

Cover photo: Carpaccio de Sandia /27 Tapas Facebook

27 Tapas

Calle Santa Luisa 295, San Isidro

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Hours: Monday-Saturday, 12pm-1am

Lunch: Monday-Saturday, 12pm-4pm

Note: There is a set menu for lunch with five choices for each course and three deserts. (S/49) This is different to the menu reviewed.

Prices

Cold Tapas     S/18–S/40

Hot Tapas      S/18–S/36

Desserts           S/15–S/23

Paella (for two) S/120–146

La entrada Eating Gluten Free in Lima: 27 Tapas se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

From an intimate dining room to an immense rooftop area, Entrañable is a happening place in Lima for meat lovers and cocktail connoisseurs.

The Miraflores newcomer, Entrañable, opened up in July of this year. The owners are the same group that are involved with Amor Amar and Cafe de Lima. This new restaurant specializes in meats and it’s very obvious they have their act together. 

The intimate dining room has seating for approximately 20 people and has a classic steakhouse feel with lots of dark wood and leather. I found it to be a serene and intimate setting. The kitchen area is nearby and also a dry ager cooler is located in the dining area.

We opted to sit in the patio area on the first level. This area has seating for about 12 diners. We enjoyed this outdoor space with a huge decorated tree in the middle. There is also an intimate bar located right off of this patio area with approximately five seats. 

The rooftop bar area has space for approximately 120 people. This has become a very popular destination. This is the area for cocktails and piqueos. They also have a reverse osmosis ice machine to guarantee pure, clean ice for their cocktails. The hours are extended on the rooftop, open until 1am on Thursdays and open until 3am on Friday and Saturday. 

The impressive Tomahawk de Chuleton de Cerdo Duroc (S/ 77) arrived at our table first. The 600 grams of pork is prepared sous-vide and finished off in the Josper oven.  The Duroc pork is firm and the meat is very tender to eat. This pork is pasture-raised in the U.S. and is antibiotic-free, humanely raised and 100% vegetarian fed. Our pork was delicious and served on the rare side. The Maldon salt flakes elevate this meat and add another delicious texture. I’m all about texture with my food. 

The Josper oven is a star at Entrañable. The Josper combines a grill and an oven in a single machine. It offers remarkable control of temperatures in its unique closed barbecue design. The Josper works 100% with charcoal and has an in-built vent system to help set and control different temperatures. 

The Olla de Hongos y Setas (S/ 33) is prepared in the Josper oven in a cast iron pot with a mixture of Shitake, Portobello, button and wild mushrooms and finished off with a sauce of mushroom butter, goat cheese and fresh rosemary. 

I am a beef lover and I definitely will return to Entrañable to sample more of their excellent beef. At Entrañable they offer dry-aged beef, both USDA Angus Prime and Choice A beef as well as boneless and in-bone cuts. Options include Bife Ancho (ribeye steak), Bife Angosto (sirloin or NY strip steak), T-bone, Asado de Tira, and Lomo Fino (tenderloin). Their Entraña (S/ 111) did not disappoint. The skirt steak was perfectly cooked and the seasoning was spot on. All of the meat dishes served here include your choice of one side and one salad. Prices vary by weight. 

Next up was their salad named Onion Rings (S/ 22). This is a stacked salad with organic tomato slices followed up with three slick slices of crispy onion rings and all topped off with arugula and a light berry vinaigrette. We enjoyed the different textures of this unique salad, but I felt the salad would have been better if the tomatoes they used had been a bit riper. 

One of my all-time favorite salads is a wedge salad. Years ago you could never find one of these here in Lima, but now I find it in quite a few restaurants. I was very pleased with the Wedge (S/. 33) at Entrañable. Two large wedges of hearts of iceberg lettuce are served with a generous amount of crispy bacon bits, cherry tomatoes, and blue cheese served with a creamy house ranch dressing. This is a success on every level: crisp, fresh, decadent and highly satisfying. 

The Pulpo al Josper (S/ 55) is one of the better versions of grilled octopus you can find in Lima. The octopus is tender, full of flavor and served with native potatoes and chimichurri sauce. Don’t miss this dish if you are an octopus aficionado. 

Last but not least, we enjoyed the Trucha Orgánica (S/ 55). This organic trout is 180 grams and served with the skin on. The trout is grilled perfectly in the Josper and is pink and very tender, the way I feel all fish should be prepared. 

Besides the delicious food, Entrañable has wonderful house cocktails. We sampled three of them. We began with the Citrus Heart (S/ 40) a refreshing mixture of gin, lime, pink grapefruit juice, rosemary syrup, carbonated water, and accented with fresh rosemary sprigs and grapefruit zest. 

Our second cocktail was the Stone Punch (S/ 40), an addictive elixir of vodka, golden pineapple juice, lime, basil and simple syrup. This was most definitely the favorite of our table. 

The Afterlife (S/ 31), a robust combination of rum, chartreuse, lime, simple syrup, and accented with fresh mint and served in a vintage glass has a powerful kick. 

Many thanks to Kevin Shu for taking the time to sit with us and discuss the restaurant as well as Chef Gabriel Fadel and his kitchen staff and of course, the bartenders. 

Entrañable

Calle Francisco de Paula Camino 260, Miraflores

Phone:  619-9590

reservas@entranable.pe

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Lunch hours:  Monday-Saturday:  12:30 p.m.-4:00 p.m.; Sunday:  12:30 p.m.-5:00 p.m.

Dinner hours: Monday-Wednesday:  7:30 p.m.-11:00 p.m.; Thursday:  7:30 p.m.-1:00 a.m.; Friday-Saturday:  7:30 p.m.-3:00 a.m.

Starters:  S/ 33-66

Salads:  S/ 22-33

Main dishes/Josper:  S/ 55-282

Side dishes:  S/ 22-33

Desserts:  S/ 22-33

Bread service:  S/ 9 

Non-alcoholic beverages:  S/ 10-15

House Cocktails:  S/ 26-40

Classic Cocktails:  S/ 28-32

Bar Piqueos/Starters:  S/ 22-45

Wine list available (bottles beginning at S/105) 

Capacity:  150 people 

La entrada Restaurant Review: Entrañable se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.