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Restaurant Review: Pueblo Viejo

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For regional food from northern Peru (we’re talking Arroz con pato and Seco de cabrito), Pueblo Viejo is a great option and is conveniently located in Miraflores.

Among the many regional foods from this lovely land, the gastronomy of Lambayeque particularly stands out. Many of the emblematic plates from Peru—such as Arroz con pato, Seco de cabrito and Espesado—come from that region. However, in order for the culinary traditions to thrive and be preserved they must be shared, and this is where Cecilia Rios comes in.

Cecilia is a self-trained chef that owns Pueblo Viejo, a restaurant that offers Chiclayan food in Lima. Though her restaurant in Miraflores has been open a little more than a year, she has been involved in the food business for a long time.

Cecilia grew up as a rice farmer in northern Peru, an experience that made her aware of the product and its care. Back in the 1990s, she and her family were struggling as the economy was in a recession, so she began her entrepreneurial career by selling humitas. Later on, alongside her husband Enrique Salazar, she began offering take-out meals on Sundays. (Her varied menu included five different main courses and entrances.) The next step was catering, and she worked on what seemed to be every major party in Chiclayo.

Finally, in 1996, Cecilia and Enrique opened Pueblo Viejo in a location that, though abandoned, tailored to each of their needs. Complete with a hostess and live music (including a piano, violins and a transverse flute), their first restaurant operated until 2002 when, having moved to Lima, Cecilia decided to stay at home to raise her kids.

pueblo viejo restaurante

On September 6, 2018, however, Cecilia opened a restaurant using the same name and concept as her first endeavor, Pueblo Viejo. Located in an old house in the district of Miraflores, her family recipes once again take center stage.

When I asked her how she worked on the recipes, she replied that they are simply in her DNA so it was a struggle to standardize them for the restaurant. With the help of her team she managed to do it so that now she can teach young culinary students how to work on her family’s traditional recipes from Lambayeque.

She also takes really good care of her produce, perhaps owed to growing up on a rice farm. Cecilia sources special aged rice, Loche squash, salt-dried fish, baby goat, duck and figs all the way from Lambayeque; a demonstration of just how seriously she takes those components as part of her menu.

The menu at Pueblo Viejo has many staple foods that are great if you want to try classic Lambayeque food.

As a standard nonalcoholic drink they offer a barley and pineapple refresher (Cebada, S/6) which has an interesting texture and refreshing flavor. If you are into cocktails their Algarrobina (S/24) is a nice starter. Made with carob syrup, pisco and evaporated milk, it is like an alcoholic milkshake.

The standard Canchita uses two different kinds of corn, chullpi and Serrano. The former is crunchier and the latter is a bit starchy so it’s a great mix with their side of homemade ají.

To really understand how this place came to life you have to try Humitas de la Abuela, the very humitas that started it all. For a fresh and unique starter you can go for the Chinguirito (S/39), a ceviche made with salt cured fish. For groups, their sweet corn fritters (Tortitas de choclo, S/15 for a portion of six patties) are highly recommendable. However they can be oily so you may want to pat them dry a little bit. If you feel a little bit more risqué you can try the ray fish omelet (Tortilla de raya, S/37) which is delicious.

When it comes to ordering the main course don’t hesitate to order the Arroz con pato (S/45), Seco de cabrito (S/45) or even the roasted goat ribs (Costillar de cabrito, S/32). They also offer some special plates on dedicated days, such as Epesado on Mondays.

When you do opt for the Arroz con pato, ask for the “concolon” which is the bottom part of the pan where the rice is cooked. It’s a little greasy and crunchy yet packed with flavor.

pueblo viejo restaurante
Roasted goat ribs (Costillar de cabrito)

The menu is a little low on the dessert options. Pueblo Viejo offers King Kong (S/8), a staple dessert from Lambayeque made by San Roque, as well as some household Lucuma or Chocolate cream desserts that are rich and very sweet. If you are lucky you may find preserved figs, and they are quite good!

When you want to find a good place for regional food from northern Peru, Pueblo Viejo is a great place to go north without moving from Miraflores. Cecilia and her husband Enrique are commonly found at the restaurant along with their dedicated team (including six cooks and six servers) which work like a happy family. 

Pueblo Viejo seats a little under 100 people, counting the inside den and the lovely patio. Open every day of the week, you can even order via Uber Eats or Rappi, however the experience of going to that old house is great.

Now, go out and have a great meal!

Pueblo Viejo

Av. Paseo de la Republica 5628, Miraflores

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Hours: Monday-Sunday, 12:30pm-4pm

La entrada Restaurant Review: Pueblo Viejo se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.


La Gastronoma: Music, Wine and Italian Food in Lima

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To the beat of its own drum, La Gastronoma is a little bistro in Miraflores serving up authentic Italian food in Lima—and superb wine.

I had been hearing about La Gastronoma since I moved to Peru, but it was only until recently, when on a work related mission, that I arrived to this place. For me, it’s one of those places in the city that outstandingly cater to a non-local crowd. If you go there during the evening you will hear a number of languages being spoken—Italian, English, and Portuguese to name a few.

Marco Tecchia and his wife Sabrina Chávez, owners of La Gastronoma, began as wine importers working with Argentinian, Chilean and Italian wineries, before turning the business into a bistro two years later. A cozy delicatessen with a great selection of products: wine, cheese, cold cuts and an ever changing menu. They recently added Adrian to the team, who started as an employee and is now partner.

La gastronoma decor

If you go during the day it is a relaxed place to have lunch; tables tend to fill up when the evening sets. The ambiance is as eclectic as the people that work in the store. Most of the employees are one way or another connected to music and it shows: each one has a playlist and there are some vinyls and even cassette tapes around the bistro. 

The menu goes on the same path of ever changing flavors, using their cheese and cold cuts as a starter with seasonal vegetables and a lot of Italian inspiration. 

The food is very good, but probably not as Instagrammable as we are used to nowadays.

Their wine by the glass changes according to who’s in charge that day. As wine importers, the owners can offer a great assortment of very small wineries (vineyards with less than 25 acres) and make an effort to visit the labels they offer. As a result, each wine has many stories to tell.

Looking at the menu you will find all the products form the deli section: hummus and vegetables, cheese boards with or without cold cuts. With a bottle of wine, a few small plates are perfect for sharing with friends or as a couple.

They also have Pizzettas Napolitana. Interestingly enough the dough is not baked but deep fried, a technique that results in a crunchy outer layer and soft inside. Toppings include goat cheese, parmigiano reggiano, stracciatella or whatever fresh and seasonal items may be on hand.

As “la Nonna” would say, pasta has to be fresh, and in this case Rosa Malasquez is in charge of that. She makes the fresh pasta every day so that customers can enjoy stuffed or long pasta made the same day or, as is the case for ravioli, no more than three days in advance. 

Ravioles de Lavanda

The stuffed ravioli had an unctuousness to the filling and the flavor combination of cheese and lavender was simply incredible. La Gastronoma also serves a taleggio and funghi ravioli with tucupi sauce. If you go for long pasta, their Spaghetti is fresh and soft and so great in texture. They even have a nero di seppia pasta that looks and tastes amazing. If you need a gluten free option you can ask for it; it is not going to be “fresh made pasta” however.

They are quite short on the dessert aspect of their menu, but what they do have is great. Their chocolate cake is called Barra Brutal and consists of a chocolate ganache with brazil nuts, drizzled with Sal de Maras (salts from Maras, Sacred Valley) and Italian olive oil. The other options are from Bosco Magico, an artisanal sorbetto and gelato producer.

If you want to have an ever-changing experience of food and music in a great environment you should go to La Gastronoma. If you go for a two person dinner it could be rounding the S/200 mark (think cheese plate, pasta and dessert), not including wine.

Now, go out and eat well!

La Gastronoma

Calle Libertad 439, Miraflores

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Mondays 3pm-10pm; Tuesday-Friday, 12pm-10pm; Saturdays, 11am-10pm

La entrada La Gastronoma: Music, Wine and Italian Food in Lima se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado Lima Taproom: Where a Pint is a Pint, and So Much More

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A must for any traveler who appreciates quality beer and service. The Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado taproom in Lima is unlike any beer bar in Lima.

Founded in 2015, Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado has enjoyed numerous awards, props from the likes of The New York Times and Vice, and has pretty much been the mark of excellence among Peruvian craft beers. The Lima taproom opened just a few months ago and is the first spawn of the original and highly revered brew pub in Ollantaytambo of the same name.

We snacked on salty canchita and got to know Juan Mayorga, general manager and co-founder of Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado, while we waited for the first round of beers. 

“I’m Peruvian, but was born in Switzerland. And I lived in the U.S. for over 20 years, attending schools in Washington D.C., Ohio and Colorado. Then I moved abroad for a bit before returning to the U.S., this time Michigan, and finally made my way to Oregon, where I reunited with Joe Giammatteo, a high school buddy of mine and the co-founder of Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado,” reminisces Juan. Along with Giammatteo’s wife, Louisa de Heer, the trio would eventually move to Peru to begin the brew project. “Now I’ve been living in the Sacred Valley for about eight years.”

The globetrotting tales of the Peruvian-English entrepreneur had our heads spinning—and we hadn’t even finished our Don’t Whine barley wine (10.9% ABV).

A few of our favorite things about Cerveceria Valle Sagrado’s Lima Taproom:

  • Juan: Though he won’t be a common face at the Lima bar, his love and passion for what he does is evident (he’s also quite vocal about it). His integrity has helped stabilize the quality of del Valle’s beer since its beginning in 2015. He also lets the f-bomb fly which simply made us feel like part of the gang. 
  • The service: All the bartenders and waitstaff members have access to the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) guide and are put through exams and occasional pop-quizzes. As Juan points out, it was vital that the bar be staffed by people knowledgeable not only of his beer, but beer in general. Tell them what you like in a beer (or preferred flavors in general) and they will be happy to help find the ideal beer for you. 
  • The ambiance: Classic 90s music like Blind Melon’s “No Rain” maintains a constant energy in the place but never interferes with the conversations enjoyed at each table. The high ceilings expose the pipes and ventilation, giving off a raw, industrial look that could come off as pretentious but here is read as casual; large windows that are left open to let the summer night breeze keep all things cool (even your dog, because this pub is pet-friendly) .
  • The water treatment: As in, if you want a glass of water, you’ll get your glass of water. No extra charge, no plastic bottles, no fuss.

While Joe continues to do recipe development for the brewery (brewmaster), Juan is the only active founder living in Peru. And though his latest venture brings him to the capital city, he assures us he is anything but a city boy, and much prefers his lifestyle in the Sacred Valley

That evening it was as if he brought that small town community feel to the taproom, as throughout our visit his godmother, friends and colleagues came by to say hello and give him a slap on the back or a warm hug. The fact that “be kind” literally radiates off one of the walls of this bar (in neon pink, no less) is no coincidence. 

The concept

“We wanted to do something different. We didn’t want to be just another beer bar where you couldn’t sit and enjoy a conversation, where it was just another (almost) pint being served by someone who knows nothing about beer or where the people come just to get drunk,” explains Juan. “We wanted to maintain quality and innovation. Even down to the long stemmed glassware used to serve the beer, this is nothing like other beer bars in Lima.”

In other words, the Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado taproom in Lima is a destination for beer drinkers who want to enjoy the company of friends and family while savoring quality craft beer. The same could be said for the space in Ollantaytambo, though the Lima locale is a far more sophisticated continuation of the Sacred Valley spot.

What to order

“We have five traditional beers that will always be on the tap list, including Doña Elsa (Wheat, 5.1% ABV), Be Kind (Pale Ale, 5.5%), Inti Punku (IPA, 6.7%), Dark Charly (Black IPA, 6.4%) and Roja con Ayrampo [yet to be on the menu the night we visited],” says Juan, as our mouths water for some hoppy suds. “But one of the main reasons we decided to put this bar was to have a place where people can try our seasonal and limited edition beers, the ones that are a result of us experimenting, collaborating and having fun.”

The number of beers available at the taproom can be a bit overwhelming for newcomers, especially if they aren’t familiar with the variety of beer styles. As a tip, focus on what you are looking for—be it something light, refreshing, bitter—and allow the staff to guide you.

For a refreshing beer, give the Be Kind, a traditional pale ale, a go. In Juan’s words, it’s “for nice, easy drinkin’.” Naranja Mecánica, a German Hefeweizen (wheat beer) with orange is as thirst-quenching as it is picture-ready. Risk-takers should try the Olas de Maras, a sour beer with hints of salt from Maras and the aguaymanto fruit, made in collaboration with Lima brewery, Lemaire. Hop Blitz uses some rare hops and offers a unique taste for many. We’ll definitely be circling back for that malty Don’t Whine barley wine, though.

Just to be clear: When you order a pint at Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado (either location), you’ll receive a full point. Unbeknownst to many pub crawlers, beer is commonly served a few milliliters less than a full pint. (Yes, it matters.)

To satisfy the beer munchies there are also some nontraditional bar food items available, such as choclo con queso, thin crust pizzas, and salads. The table favorite was by far the chifa-inspired chicharrón de pollo.

Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado Taproom (Lima)

Dos de Mayo 508, Miraflores

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Hours: Monday-Wednesday, 5pm-12am; Thursday-Saturday, 5pm-1am (closed Sundays)

Prices

Pints: S/18-21

Half-pints: S/11-13

Sampler (4 beer varieties): S/26

Salads: S/24

Pizzas: S/32

All photos: Erick Andia

La entrada Cerveceria del Valle Sagrado Lima Taproom: Where a Pint is a Pint, and So Much More se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Wallqa Restaurant: Peruvian Classics with a Creative Flair

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For an exquisite lunch or night out, try the creative proposals of Wallqa, the restaurant and bar of Le Cordon Bleu Peru.

Being a Le Cordon Bleu alumni, I hold a special place in my heart for this place. The restaurant Wallqa is part of Le Cordon Bleu Peru Corporation and has been operating for ten years. During its run many a handful of chefs and many (many) students have passed and grown up to be great chefs in the local and international scene.

Led by General Manager Arturo Piedra and with almost two years under the Executive Chef Diego Pomez, Wallqa offers a creative Peruvian-inspired menu that changes twice a year. 

This season they decided to reduce and go back to the basics, maintaining a creative flair throughout the entire menu.

They have a well-equipped bar that offers many cocktails, coming from the Le Cordon Bleu Cocktail career offered. This season the head bartender Luis Chavez offers drinks using not only pisco but also tequila, rum, vodka, whiskey and gin (not necessarily together).

Julep Andino, a whiskey based drink, was fresh and well balanced with natural flavorings of muña (Andean mint) and hierba luisa (lemongrass). For a Tiki-inspired tequila based cocktail with an amazing smokey taste try the Naylamp. There is also the recommendable cocktail Afrodita, with berries and vodka.

The menu is organized with piqueos (small plates/snacks) to share in which you can experience some drinks and share with friends. From a take on Salchipapas (basically fries tossed with sliced sausages) to their incredible barbecue wings that are sweet/tangy/spicy in all the right ways, there is a wide range of options in this section of the menu.

pastel de choclo wallqa
Pastel de choclo serrano

If you want a more structured menu for lunch or dinner you can go with a starter, such as a fresh ceviche (at Wallqa it is well balanced and juicy),  or their Rocoto relleno served over a quinotto with a cream infused with cecina (a smoked and dried pork belly form the Peruvian jungle). There is also the Pastel de choclo serrano, which is served on a sweet corn bechamel. This dish is sweet and savory and unctuous with grated cheese on top.

arroz con chancho norteño wallqa
Arroz con chancho norteño

When you move to the main courses their Lomo saltado is juicy, and well executed: the onions are not soggy and have the right amount of juice, the potatoes are twice fried so they are very crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.

Their Arroz con chancho norteño consists of a slow cooked piece of pork belly that is then roasted so the meat is tender and the connective tissue has turned into a gel. Paired with the crunchy skin on top and the creaminess of the rice that accompanies the dish, the mix of textures is perfect.

Arroz con leche and mazamorra morada

To finish the meal you can select one of their Peruvian desserts like Crema volteada which is a dense version of a flan made with evaporated milk. There is also the chocolate cake with chocolate sauce, Arroz con leche and mazamorra morada—which has a great flavor and contrast in colors, temperatures and complementing flavors.

They also offer a daily Executive menu which consist of a smaller portions of the appetizer, main and dessert for S/25.

Finally, during the summer and until Easter, Wallqa will be managing the seafood bar at The Club House at Playa Gaviotas, from Friday to Sunday. A special menu is made available as well as a bar cart serving cocktails. On the bar they offer a huge jug of leche de tigre which is very refreshing and filling.

There is also a tasting trio where you can have smaller portions of Arroz con mariscos, Jalea Mixta and Ceviche clasico, among different options to eat in or take out to the Beach house.

An average meal per person is around S/100 (without drinks).

Now, go out and eat well!

All photos: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

Wallqa

Av. Vasco Núñez de Balboa 530, Miraflores

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Hours: Monday-Friday, 12:30pm-3:30pm and 7:30pm-10:30pm; Sunday, 12:30pm-4pm (closed Saturdays)

Piqueos: S/20-24

Starters: S/24-29

Mains: S/31-37

Desserts: S/16-19

Drinks: S/26-28


La entrada Wallqa Restaurant: Peruvian Classics with a Creative Flair se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Don Nico: The Steakhouse Lima was Missing

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Meatlovers, this one’s for you. High-quality Angus beef meets expert grilling techniques at Don Nico, perhaps the grandest steakhouse in Lima.

Avenida Mariscal La Mar in Miraflores is a popular street with many restaurants serving seafood and international food. What was missing? A steakhouse, of course. Recently, the team of Traveling and Living in Peru was pleasantly surprised when we entered Don Nico Steakhouse in Lima. 

The inspiration

Who is “Don Nico”? I had the opportunity to speak to one of his son’s, Sebastian Gonzalez, during our visit. First and foremost, Nicanor Gonzalez Urrutia was passionate about his family, friends, good food and adventure. He was an infamous hard-core, lifelong adventurer, a successful businessman and a true epicurean. He loved to surf and was a champion sailor. But he was more well known as a serious competitor in auto racing.

While I was writing this article, I discovered that my husband was friends with Nicanor back in the 1970’s and they sailed often together, including competing together in the Thousand Mile Regatta in Chile in 1978.

This was a renaissance man who lived life to the fullest and this restaurant is a wonderful homage to him.

After their father had passed away, brothers Nicanor and Sebastián González opened the doors of their first steakhouse in 2014 in the beach area of Punta Hermosa. The name of the restaurant, Don Nico, is in remembrance of their father and the barbecues he prepared for the family in Punta Hermosa during the time he lived there. In December 2019 they opened their second restaurant in the heart of Miraflores. They are already enjoying repeat customers in the brief time they have been open.They have plans to open up the second floor in a few months as well. 

Done Nico is a Lima steakhouse where you can find the ideal mix between the best American meat (with the Certified Angus Beef seal) combined with expert grilling methods

A family affair, in every detail

The decor at this new Miraflores location is more sophisticated and refined than at the comfy Punta Hermosa beach-vibe locale, but still a comfortable, cozy and chic atmosphere. The decor and details are impeccable: the Balinese black-fringed hanging tiki lamps, hanging textiles, rattan chairs with cool cushions, and large mirrors with wood frames, just to name a few. There’s an abundance of wood, brick walls and the color black. I fell in love with the black matte silverware here as well. Sebastian told me that his mother, Marcela De la Torre, is primarily responsible for the interiors. She also owns a home interiors shop in the Punta Hermosa named Aqua Marine Beach Style. 

Our experience at Don Nico Steakhouse in Lima, from beginning to end, was full of delicious moments. A complete A1 experience. The prices are on the higher side which I feel is to be expected from a high-quality steakhouse. In my opinion, well worth the splurge

Cocktails

We began with a selection of three house cocktails to whet our whistles. The head bartender at Don Nico is Omar Lopez (previously at ámaZ). I found his cocktails creative, fun and conversation-inspiring. We enjoyed his contagious passion and his killer drinks. First up was the Last Rites (S/ 40), a combination of Flor de Caña 12 rum, Cocchi Rosso vermouth, Campari, Ardberg single malt whisky, and Cruz Conde PX dry sherry. There is a reason for the name of this cocktail. It is full of flavor and quite robust; perhaps the ideal beverage to drink before one dies—or, if you drink one too many, you will need the last rites read to you. 

The Roger Rabbit (S/40), was a refreshing concoction of Santa Teresa 1796 aged rum, carrot and pineapple juices, coconut and lime. This would be the ideal beverage for those that enjoy a more mild cocktail. 

My favorite was the Conde Fino (S/38), it was wonderful for both the eyes and the mouth. This wonderful elixir is prepared with Amazonian Gin, Matacuy (an Andean digestif made from botanical extracts in distilled sugar cane in the small Peruvian area, Ollantaytambo), Cruz Conde Fino sherry, apple and cardamom. The presentation is another experience. It arrived in a vintage style wide-mouth champagne glass. On top of the golden liquid was a large sphere-like bubble. Once you take the first sip, you break the bubble and a whisper of smoke puffs free and you continue to sip and enjoy.

Besides cocktails, be sure to peruse the dynamic wine list which was prepared by three-time best sommelier champion in Peru, Joseph Ruiz. Prior to working at Don Nico he also was a sommelier at Central. Ever charismatic, he also teaches at two institutions and is a wine consultant. You can opt to bring your own wine to Don Nico, but you will be charged a 50 soles corkage fee. I feel the wine list is excellent at Don Nico Steakhouse in Lima is diverse in options and prices. 

Main course (and superb sides)

On to the food! We chatted with Don Nico’s head chef and advisor, Patricio Basombrio. He is an experienced chef that has worked in many excellent restaurants, among them Mirazur (Menton, France), ranked No. 1 on the World’s Best Restaurant 2019. He spoke to us about creating the Don Nico menu and keeping it simple, preparing the classic steakhouse-style dishes using excellent quality ingredients and executing them extremely well. He even mentioned the work to enrich and improve dishes, without over-elaboration.

We began with one of their starters, Conchas de Abanico (S/42). Five jumbo sea scallops grilled with lime and tapioca pearls is simply exquisite. The textures in this dish elevated scallops to another level for me. 

I am a fan of steak tartare so I was happy when this starter arrived at our table. Don Nico’s version of Steak Tartare (S/89) is one of the better versions you can find in Lima. The raw ground (minced) beef is perfectly seasoned with scant amounts of very thinly chopped onions, parsley, Worcestershire sauce, and other seasonings with a raw egg yolk on top. The rich flavor of the beef was the star because they did not over saturate the ground beef with all the seasonings. The tartare is served with crispy crackers and arugula.

Steak tartare topped with egg yolk and served with arugula and rustic fried potatoes

I don’t typically mention side dishes served at restaurants, but the Encurtidos (S/20), is a wonderful option. The mason jar filled with pickled crispy slices of carrots, onions and other vegetables is both delicious and also a wonderful palate cleanser especially when eating richer foods, such as beef. 

From the Especiales section of the menu we shared the Fondue Don Nico (S/99). A generous amount of large pieces of zucchini, mushrooms and Certified Angus Beef are grilled perfectly and served on a wood board. On this board is a rustic artisanal bread bowl filled with creamy, gooey, melted Taleggio cheese which you dip all of these ingredients. Make sure you break off a few pieces of the bread to enjoy at the end. It’s addictive. 

I am a Chicago girl and we take our beef very seriously. So I, along with the TLIP team,  was very pleased and impressed with the quality and flavor of all the beef dishes we sampled at Don Nico Steakhouse in Lima, especially the delectable Bife Ancho Sin Hueso (boneless Ribeye steak, S/150). This arrived at our table served on a wood board with half a roasted garlic bulb, coarse salt and a sprig of rosemary. This 500-gram steak was grilled perfectly: deeply flavorful, pink in the center, juicy, and soft. This could easily satisfy two diners or one diner with a very hearty appetite. 

Bife Ancho Sin Hueso Don Nico
The delectable Bife Ancho Sin Hueso
Fried potato wedges and macaroni and cheese are both side options

Besides the Ribeye, there are ten other prime cuts of beef on the Don Nico menu available for all tastes: Porterhouse, T-Bone, Skirt steak, Filet Mignon, NY Strip, among others. One side dish is included with any selection in the Prime Meats section of the menu. There are 12 options to choose from. 

Speaking of side dishes, we sampled three standouts, Papa Fritas Tumbay (S/18), classic rustic Peruvian potatoes cut into wedges and fried with the skin on; Coleslaw (S/20), thin slices of crunchy purple and green cabbage, carrot and a very light mayo-based sauce to hold it together all topped off with ultra-thin crispy onion rings; and their Mac & Cheese (S/24), a decadent version prepared with English cheddar and smoky Italian cheeses. 

Last, but not least, the desserts. There are four options available. We thoroughly enjoyed the exquisite Cheesecake (S/18), a rich and creamy cheesecake topped off with fresh raspberries and blueberries, a berry reduction and flowers. The presentation was elegant and vibrant with color. 

I definitely need to return and sample one of their two burgers prepared with beef. They also have an interesting looking shrimp burger and a portobello burger for those who prefer vegetables. Also on my list when I return to Don Nico is their pastel de choclo, onion soup, one of their salads, and more meat! Probably the skirt or porterhouse steak. 

Besides the dishes for those with carnivorous hearts, I counted 17 dishes that would be suitable for vegetable-leaning diners. There are also seafood options which include shrimp, scallops, trout, and lobster. If you are looking for something lighter, there are four substantial salads available. 

Final words

Many thanks to owner Sebastian Gonzalez, Patricio Basombrio, and Joseph Ruiz who all took the time to speak with us, as well as the care and attention we received from all of the formidable and hard-working Don Nico team.

Don Nico Steakhouse in Lima is definitely a great new destination for beef and so much more. Never underestimate the power of simple, perfectly executed quality cuisine. 

The energy, spirit and passion of Don Nicanor Gonzalez is alive and well here at Don Nico Steakhouse.

All photos: Marco Simola

Don Nico Steakhouse 

Av. Mariscal La Mar 901, Miraflores 

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Phone:  942 224 552

Capacity:  70 people 

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 12:30pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm; Sunday, 12:30pm-4pm (closed Mondays)

Valet parking and street parking available

Prime Meats:  S/ 55-280

Side dishes/Garnishes:  S/ 18-24

Hamburgers:  S/ 38-46

Starters:  S/ 18-89

Salads:  S/ 32-52

Specials:  S/ 68-166

Kids Menu:  S/ 24-28

Desserts:  S/ 18-25

Cocktails (house & classics):  S/30-40

Wines by the glass:  S/ 20-36

Wine by the bottle:  S/ 80-1,850

Full cocktail bar 

La entrada Don Nico: The Steakhouse Lima was Missing se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

La Pasta Co. 1704 Serves Up Fresh Pasta in a Giant Wheel of Parmesan Cheese

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Neighboring the meat-focused La Grill 1704, La Pasta Co. 1704 can satisfy your carb cravings with the fettuccini al grana padano.

La Grill 1704 and La Pasta Co. 1704 are just two of the over 15 stands that lie within Mercado San Martín, what some consider the newest cousin of Mercado 28.

Recently opened in October 2019, Mercado San Martín is the place to be for those not only looking for a vast variety of foods under one roof, but also for looking to share camaraderie with friends, family, and even strangers.

This is the story behind the creation of both and our food experience.

pasta

The humble beginnings

Five years ago, Diego Gambirazio and Pablo Cruzalegui created La Grill as a catering company for those whose taste buds dared for more.

What started off as artisanal chorizo soon grew to burgers and then barbeques, moving from the hearts into the homes of hungry clients.

When it came time for the chefs to move their catering into a permanent brick-and-mortar, they were presented with the opportunity to enter Mercado San Martín.

So, with the food market’s grand opening just five months ago, Pablo and Diego took the chance and first opened La Pasta Co. 1704, which was soon neighbored by La Grill 1704.

Both of which are tactfully dated (1704) to reflect the birthdays of the old friends.

The atmosphere

The ambience of Mercado San Martín is similar to that of Mercado 28.

As soon as one passes through the wide entrance from the street, a gentle buzz of hungry visitors fills the two-level dining hall, which is rustically decorated with wooden chairs and tables for a welcoming feel.

With each few steps, wafts of new cuisine fill your nose, from stands offering chicken wings and anticuchos to paella or sushi. No matter where you walk, you are bound to find something to your liking.

Head to the center of the food market to find Diego in action, passionately manning La Grill 1704 and La Pasta Co. 1704 to make sure your order comes out timely and tastefully.

The food

During our visit, we tried the hallmark dishes of La Grill 1704 and La Pasta Co. 1704.

From La Grill 1704, we started off with matambre a la pizza (S/40). This pizza has a unique twist: the traditional bready dough is switched out for a juicy slab of pork. Tomato sauce is slathered on top of the meaty base with mozzarella, onions, mushrooms, red peppers, and oregano as toppings.

Although a bit chewy for our liking, we certainly understand why this plate often flies off the grill at first sight. For meat lovers, it is worth trying and sharing.

Next up for us from La Pasta Co. 1704 was 400 grams of fettuccini al grana padano (S/40) with milanesa al panko (for an additional S/8), which was—by far—our favorite of the day.

The fettuccini pasta is tastefully bathed in a homemade white sauce before being introduced into the signature Grana Padano cheese wheel. Among the spices used are peppercorn, which gives the plate a nice kick. For us, the added milanesa drizzled with chimichurri put the cherry on top.

Stay tuned for the arrival of new plates this month at La Grill 1704 and La Pasta Co. 1704, one of which we had the opportunity to try.

This appetizer of finely-ground, artisanal chorizo with perfectly goldened potatoes will get the ball rolling for any main dish. Once again, the homemade chimichurri sauce adds the perfect finishing touch.

Other novelties coming in February for La Grill 1704 and La Pasta Co. 1704 include a weekend brunch consisting of a mixto (ham and cheese sandwich), pasta with salchicha huachana; lasagna; ravioli and two new burgers. To quench your thirst, a new line of iced teas will also make their way into both.

All photos: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

La Grill 1704 & La Pasta Co. 1704

Calle San Martín 482, Miraflores

Facebook: La Grill 1704, La Pasta Co. 1704

Instagram: La Grill 1704, La Pasta Co. 1704

Hours: Monday, 12-9pm; Tuesday and Wednesday, 12-10pm; Thursday-Saturday, 12-11pm; Sunday, 10am-9pm

La entrada La Pasta Co. 1704 Serves Up Fresh Pasta in a Giant Wheel of Parmesan Cheese se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Porcus: Where Pork is King

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Using exclusively Duroc pork, a superior breed of pig, Porcus shows off this humble meat’s versatility—and serves up a thick butifarra sandwich.

The team of Traveling and Living in Peru visited the pork-centric restaurant, Porcus, a couple of weeks ago and left feeling highly satisfied. Porcus is a true tribute to the pig and is the first restaurant in Peru specializing exclusively in pork. In Latin, the word “porcus” means pig, hog, tame swine. Porcus officially opened their doors in October 2019.  

Why pork? Peruvians love pork. It’s eaten during special occasions, late at night, weekend breakfasts (pan con chicharron or butifarra sandwiches), etc. Any excuse is a good one to eat pork. Pork is also modestly priced in comparison to beef. Depending on what you read and who you listen to, it is estimated the average Peruvian consumes approximately 6 to 8 kilos of pork annually—and it’s on the rise. 

A chef’s story

Porcus-chef-Giacomo-Bocchio
Chef Giacomo Bocchio

Chef Giacomo Bocchio’s Italian/Peruvian family originally hails from Tacna (the southernmost part of Peru). Cooking is in his blood. His grandfather had a restaurant in Tacna for 50 years. This Lima Cordon Bleu graduate held internships in his youth at the Ritz Carlton (Naples, Florida), Celler de Can Roca (Spain), and DOM (Brazil). 

I first met the culinary talent in 2011 when the team of TLIP visited the restaurant, Manifiesto. He was just 27 years old at the time but his passion and extensive culinary knowledge impressed us. Over the years he remained active and involved in many other culinary projects: Wallqa (as executive chef); La Lucha Sangucheria (most recently, a short stint as the director of menu quality and cooking direction), projects with Kitchen Center Peru and even on national television sharing recipes and preparing dishes. When I first heard back in July 2019 that he was planning on opening up a restaurant dedicated to pork, I was elated because I have always been a big fan of his cooking. Giacomo has put together a cohesive team of people at Porcus that he has worked with in other projects.

Porcus’ unique location

Porcus is located in a unique location. Its premises once housed one of the first wineries in Lima over 50 years ago. It has a great angular corner spot on the street. Avenue Pardo is nearby and the restaurant is a short walk to the ocean. Porcus has maintained the spirit of a tavern as well as a comfortable vibe and without pretensions. There are many windows which offer an abundance of natural light inside. You can choose to sit at the intimate bar area on the left side of the restaurant or the front section of the restaurant with smaller tables. Further back are larger tables available for groups of four or more. 

The rich cornflower blue color is found on the exterior of the front entrance doors, along the bar area and also accents all of the window sills (inside and out). And the pigs! They are tastefully displayed throughout the restaurant and are part of the decor. Pig figurines, vintage finds, piggy banks, ceramic, artwork on the walls, even down to the silver pig displayed on top of the silverware and napkin dispensers on every table. 

Cocktails

Porcus has a small, but varied house cocktail list. We began with their Wild Porcus (S/ 35), a robust and delicious concoction of Wild Turkey Bourbon, Cynar (artichoke liqueur), Aperol (the classic, slightly bitter Italian orange-hued aperitif), a splash of orange juice, truffle and little pieces of Serrano ham. We also shared a refreshing Tacna Sour (S/ 25), prepared with Pisco Huamani and peach liquor. Classic cocktails and wines are available as well. On a return visit we had a classic Chilcano and a Moscow Mule, both very satisfying. 

The food

Currently there are two cohesive menus to order from on a daily basis: the official Porcus menu and their summer menu for some lighter options. Porcus exclusively uses Duroc pork (a breed developed in the U.S. and also raised in Peru) for all of their pork dishes. Duroc is a superior quality, rich flavored premium pork with a great reputation. 

Taco de Lechuga con Panceta
Taco de Lechuga con Panceta

From the summer menu we shared three dishes. First out was the Taco de Lechuga con Panceta (S/ 22). A platter arrives with several Boston lettuce leaves, oriental chimichurri sauce, roasted pork belly, shari zu, sesame seeds, cilantro, pickled salad and a house hoisin sauce. The idea is to take a leaf of the lettuce and fill it with a bit of all the ingredients and top it off with a dollop of the hoisin sauce. This lettuce wrap is something special! 

The Rollitos de Verano (S/ 18) are an ideal option, especially for the summer. Refreshing, crisp and flavorful. The rice paper is filled with julienned slices of carrot, roasted pork, cilantro, and accompanied by pickled turnips, and an addictive ponzu dipping sauce.

The Ensalada César con Pluma (S/ 33) is another dish we sampled from the summer menu. The cut of pork used is called “pluma,” which looks similar to a thinner version of pork tenderloin. It is a cut which comes from behind the neck/shoulder area and has a beautiful marbling of fat running through it. We found it to be tender and succulent. The pluma is grilled and served with a classic Caesar salad with romaine lettuce, crunchy croutons, Parmesan cheese and generous bits of homemade Porcus bacon with a Caesar vinaigrette. 

Butifarra

The Butifarra (S/ 16) is one of the essential, traditional and iconic Peruvian sandwiches. It is part of Peruvian culinary culture and sold in every sangucheria. The star ingredient is the jamón del país, a special Peruvian country-style ham prepared by boiling a boned pork leg in a flavorful broth. Porcus prepares their jamón del país in-house, slices it and stacks it high inside a crispy pan frances bun along with salsa criollo (sliced red onions, aji amarillo peppers, lime juice, and chopped parsley) and Boston lettuce. Outstanding! 

Patacón Amazónico

For something different and delicious, I suggest trying the Patacón Amazónico (S/ 24). This dish highlights some unique Peruvian ingredients from the Amazon. Three fried plantain “cups” arrive filled with a mixture of minced bondiola confitada (pork confit, meat from the neck area), sachatomate (“tree tomato” fruit) chutney, aji de cocona (acidic Amazon fruit mixed with peppers) and cecina (a robust, dried bacon similar to jerky). The perfect finger food. 

Our table loved the Bao de Chasiu (S/ 22), two steamed buns filled with pork cooked for 12 hours with an Asian chasiu barbecue sauce at a low temperature. The buns are served along with a Sriracha hot sauce mayonnaise, a criollo pickled turnip salsa and fried sweet potato threads. This dish is all about delicious textures and was amazingly addictive! 

Caja China with Carapulcra stew

If you have a hearty appetite, order the Caja China (S/ 42). Pork belly is prepared in the caja china (box-style roasting/grilling that uses charcoal heat) then served with homemade carapulcra stew (an old recipe which includes dehydrated potatoes, port wine, aji panca, garlic, peanuts, and chocolate as well as various spices). The pork and carapulcra are accompanied by rice mixed with corn. This is the perfect comfort food dish. 

Chuleton Charcutier

The Chuleton Charcutier (S/ 64) is 650 grams of Duroc pork chop porcine pleasure! A velvety charcuterie sauce is served with the pork chop and generously drizzled over the rustic mashed potatoes. The sauce is a savory veloute which is prepared with roux, a light stock, wine, pickles and mustard. Definitely a dish to be enjoyed by two people or a very hearty eater.

We somehow were able to polish off the decadent Choux con Helado (S/ 18), a large donut-shaped dessert made with profiterole dough accompanied by salted caramel ice cream and drizzled with fudge sauce. 

On my return visit a week later with my husband, we dabbled in a few other plates that are worth trying: Siu Mai (S/ 26), five deliciously plump open-faced dumplings filled with a generous amount of minced pork and shrimp resting in a wonderful sweet hoisin sauce; an incredible Pastel de Choclo (S/ 25) from the summer menu, which is a meatless version and served nestled in a creamy huancaina sauce; Carbonara Porcus (S/ 30), a satisfying plate with an abundance of house-made Porcus ham and bacon, organic eggs, spaghetti and Parmesan. 

Porcus offers a tasting menu for S/ 68 which includes smaller portions of seven of their star dishes. A very good value. 

Porcus also offers a brunch menu every Sunday (9am-noon). The brunch currently serves 11 different selections, with some dishes changing periodically. 

Congratulations to Giacomo, Alvaro, Brenda Dávila (the chef of cuisine), and the entire team of Porcus. The restaurant is still young, but it’s off to an excellent start. 

Never underestimate the power of pork. Pork lovers unite! 

Photos: Cesar Del Aguila Calle

Porcus

Calle Comandante Juan G. Moore 176, Miraflores, Lima

Contact:  301-4726, reservas@porcusperu.com

www.porcusperu.com

Instagram / Facebook

Hours:  Tuesday-Thursday, 12pm-11pm; Friday & Saturday, 12pm-11:30pm; Sunday, 9am-5pm; Sunday Brunch, 9am-12pm (closed Mondays)

Capacity: approximately 70

Valet parking & street parking 

Delivery available 

Official menu:

     Toctos:  S/ 5

     Sandwiches:  S/ 16-17

     Starters:  S/ 14-36

     Main dishes:  S/ 30-64

     Menu Porcus:  S/ 68

     Desserts:  S/ 12-18

Summer menu:  S/ 16-33

House Cocktails:  S/ 32-35

Gin & Tonics:  S/ 30-38

Pisco Cocktails:  S/ 22-35

Classic cocktails:  S/ 25-30

Beer:  S/ 12-16

Wines by the glass:  S/ 16-18

Wines (bottle):  S/ 75-130

Brunch menu:  S/ 14-18

     Desserts:  S/ 12-18

     Alcohol:  Aperol Spritz, 2 X 32 soles 

                   Wine by glass (selection of the day), 2 X 28 soles 

     Seasonal Juices:  S/ 12

     Infusions:  S/ 10

     Coffee:  S/ 6.50-9

La entrada Porcus: Where Pork is King se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Chelawasi Public House: A Taste of Oregon in Arequipa

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Inspired by the Northwest craft beer scene, Chelawasi Public House is a stop you must make while visiting Arequipa, La Ciudad Blanca.

Located in beautiful, historic San Lazaro, this laid-back space is filled with vibrant murals and art that inspire and create a welcoming atmosphere. You’ll often find owners and husband-and-wife team, Casey and Katterin Workman, slinging drinks at the bar and chatting with patrons. This authentic and personalized service adds to the dynamic vibe of Chelawasi.

What to know before you go:

Atmosphere:  This laid-back cozy Public house is filled with local art and murals with close-quarters seating.

What to Eat:  The Vladimir Veggie Poutine slathered in mushroom gravy is the ultimate veggie comfort food. Carnivores can live a new foodie experience each visit by sampling the variety of Chicken Wings flavors.

What to Drink:  The Black Jesus Mule is a local favorite and must try for anyone passing through. Of course, you can’t go without sipping on some national craft beer.

Where to Sit:  This space fills up easily, but our favorite spot is in the front room by the bar within easy view of the live music or screenings of Tiny Desk Concerts.

While sipping drinks and waiting for our food, Casey explained that while living in Portland, Oregon, he often went to public houses for quality craft beer and a relaxing evening. When he moved to Peru, he decided this was something he wanted to share and bring to Arequipa. His project, Chelawasi, does not disappoint.

We tried the popular Black Jesus Mule, a classic mule with Ginger Beer and Black Jesus beer that warms the belly with its spicy taste. This is a definite favorite, and I’d come back solely for this drink.

We also got to taste the Mata Mula and the IPA Punch, both of which are wonderful. The IPA Punch is a sweeter drink consisting of mango refresco and an IPA beer. The Andean herbs in the Mata Mula result in an earthier taste.

If you’re looking for something non-alcoholic, Chelawasi’s House Kombucha is a delight! You can get plain kombucha, or they have a variety of natural fruit flavors that can be added in. Our favorites are strawberry and passion fruit.

Chelawasi also has a great selection of food to go with the drinks. The two vegetarian options we sampled were The Hippy Burger and the Vladimir Veggie Poutine. The Hippy Burger is a giant burger made of beans and beets, topped with an Andean cheese and a pile of vegetables. The earthy flavor of beets pairs perfectly with the savory beans, making this a great option for vegetarian and meat-eaters alike. The Vladimir Veggie Poutine is a unique twist on this Northwest staple. These crisp French fries are slathered with mushroom gravy and topped with Andean cheese, making this dish a must-try option for any vegetarian. 

For the carnivores, we’d recommend the Chicken Wings or the Pulled Pork Sandwich. The Chicken Wings come in a variety of flavors, including mango and ginger, spicy avocado, and classic buffalo. The Pulled Pork Sandwich is a classic option, with juicy BBQ sauce and Andean cheese that is sure to satisfy a beer or kombucha drinker.

Chelawasi Public House is a great spot to eat until your heart’s content, drink some beers while watching a Tiny Desk Concert, and spend an enjoyable evening unwinding with friends.

Chelawasi Public House

102 Campo Redondo, San Lázaro (Arequipa)

Hours: Monday, 4pm-9:30pm; Tuesday-Thursday, 4pm-10:30pm; Friday, 4pm-11pm; Saturday, 12pm-11pm; Sunday, 4pm-9:30pm

Facebook / Instagram

The Hippy Burger:  S/20

Pulled Pork Sandwich:  S/26

Vladimir Veggie Poutine:  S/15

Chicken Wings:  S/20 (6 wings), S/35 (12 wings), S/55 (24 wings)

IPA Punch:  S/19

Mata Mula:  S/23

Black Jesus Mule:  S/19

House Kombucha:  S/10 (plus S/2 per added frui flavor)

All photos except cover photo: Clinton Fandrich

Cover photo: Chelawasi Facebook Page

La entrada Chelawasi Public House: A Taste of Oregon in Arequipa se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.


Restaurant Review: Al Toke Pez

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Created by Tomás “Toshi” Matsufuji, Al Toke Pez is every foodie’s dream: an unpretentious hole-in-the-wall that provides quick service and excellent food. Learn about the restaurant featured in Netflix’s Street Food: Latin America.

One Tuesday afternoon we ventured into the working-class area of Surquillo to check out the popular Al Toke Pez and meet its chef and owner, Tomás “Toshi” Matsufuji. I had previously read reviews about Al Toke Pez and decided to do a little bit of research before our scheduled visit. I am also a reader and fan of El Trinche (the popular online gastronomic website here in Peru) that includes restaurant reviews, food/cooking articles and all things pertaining to food in Spanish – basically an excellent Peruvian foodie website.

Who is Tomás Toshi Matsufuji?

Toshi is an occasional contributor to El Trinche as well. Toshi comes from an emblematic family involved in Nikkei cuisine here in Peru. You could say cooking is in his “blood”. Before Toshi was involved with this restaurant, he had previously received his degree as an agriculture engineer and eventually attained his doctorate in molecular chemistry.

What brought him back to cooking? Toshi’s father, famous Japanese-Peruvian chef, Dario Matsufuji, had previously owned the successful Nikkei restaurant, Matsuei, in Miraflores, where Toshi gained much of his culinary experience. After his father passed away, Toshi felt responsible to take over his father’s business for a bit. In 2011, Toshi opened Al Toke Pez.

Al Toke Pez

Al Toke Pez is a casual, unpretentious, rustic food stand – huarique or hole-in-the-wall – which offers quick, fast food at a great price. Prices are very reasonable for the quality and quantity of food which is offered. The chalkboard menu is limited and lists the items available, occasionally a few of those items change.

On the day of our visit, the restaurant was bustling with customers arriving to place carryout orders and a few stayed to dine at the counter. The majority of their business is carryout. There are approximately seven stools available at the counter. There are no tables.

The day of our visit to Al Toke Pez, four of us eagerly shared six different dishes which included leche de tigre, ceviche de pescado, sudado de mariscos, saltado de pescado, their famous combinado and something that was not listed on the chalkboard menu: tiradito. All of the dishes have a bit of an oriental touch.

The famous dishes at Al Toke Pez

We were fascinated watching the speedy and talented Toshi multi-tasking and preparing all the dishes rapidly, at times with flames blazing, at the stove. It is no wonder this 24-year-old is wiry and slender in build. There are a couple other employees that serve the customers, take orders and pack up all the carry-out orders as well. They also assist with preparation. The food here is definitely served quickly and the team at Al Toke Pez works efficiently.

leche
Leche de tigre with fried calamari (Photo: Parker Clifford/Living in Peru)

Toshi typically buys his fish early in the mornings at the Villa María de Triunfo fish market. The fish used at Al Toke Pez depends on the daily “catch of the day” that he sources, which are usually the more affordable fish such as “lisa”, perico, cabrilla, etc.

We began our dining experience with the leche de tigre, available in two sizes (4 or 8 ounces) and served in white styrofoam cups. The combination of pieces of fish, onion, ginger, corn and canchita topped off with several pieces of plump fried calamari was a good sign of things to come.

The ceviche de pescado was extremely fresh and they used the fish, “lisa”, tossed very briefly with the lime juice and served immediately accompanied by potato, corn, canchita and fresh “yuyo” seaweed. The fish, lisa, was used in most of the dishes we sampled. Next came the piping hot dish of sudado de mariscos. This hearty sudado was the perfect comfort food for this gray day. A plentiful amount of seafood, tomatoes, onions, and herbs in a wonderful broth hit the spot.

tiradito
Tiradito (Photo: Parker Clifford/Living in Peru)

One of our favorite dishes was the saltado de pescado, a sweet and salty dish of crispy sautéed fish with green onions, red onion, bell peppers, and a hint of ginger. We devoured this dish.

The combinado is the ideal dish to order if you want some variety and lots of flavor. The plate contains rice with seafood (arroz con mariscos), fried calamari and ceviche mixto (very tender octopus, calamari, shrimp, white fish, etc.).

The final dish that Toshi prepared for us was an incredibly tender, simple and exquisite rendition of tiradito. This dish was not listed on the chalkboard menu, so we were pleasantly surprised. The raw fish was sliced thin, beautifully presented and accented with lime juice and a light amount of olive oil. The simplicity and freshness made this one of the better tiradito dishes I have had in quite awhile.

Al Toke Pez occasionally offers “specials” besides their regular chalkboard menu. I noticed the fish, cachete de robalo, which has three versions available for 35 soles: fried and accompanied by a salad, fried yuca and rice or sudado style or sautéed with vegetables.

We all truly enjoyed the food at Al Toke Pez and I highly recommend it. I definitely will be back very soon myself and plan on bringing visitors here in the future to experience the authentic Peruvian dishes and atmosphere.

Al Toke Pez

Visit their Facebook page for up-to-date information of when the establishment will open up during Peru’s COVID-19 state of emergency.

Av. Angamos Este 886, Surquillo
Cash only

Cover photo: Al Toke Pez Facebook Page

This article has been updated from its original publication on October 14, 2015.

La entrada Restaurant Review: Al Toke Pez se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Limaná: Indulge in a Healthy, Fine Dining Experience in Lima, Peru

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An open-air layout, sustainable practices and focus on nutritious food makes Limaná an urban oasis in Peru’s capital city.

Three years ago, after leaving her long-standing position as Commercial Manager of Inca Rail, Ana Belaunde took a sabbatical year to breathe, center her passions and, ultimately, figure out how to combine them in the next chapter of her life. The result is Limaná: a healthy fine dining experience that brings together her fascination for cooking, nutrition and sustainability.

While her love for animals drove her to become vegetarian over 25 years ago, it was, curiously enough, her fear of becoming anemic due to the diet change that would lead her to the world of nutrition. 

“I began to read about the common malpractices of corporations in livestock farming, which led to me meeting with amazing nutritionists. Meanwhile, I noticed my allergies disappeared and overall health improved with my change in diet—and it all led to this other passion of mine, one for nutrition and eating well,” tells Ana. 

Now, backed by a team of experts in fields of wellness, nutrition (including Sacha Barrios), cooking and design, Ana strives to show people that providing your body with the nutrients it needs can be an enjoyable—if not indulgent—experience.

The space

There is an undeniable element of design at Limaná where each space is aesthetically pleasing, calming and elevates the dining experience. The restaurant is quite unlike any other place in the city, from the facade to the aguaymanto bushes resting in the interior patio. 

Stark white walls undecorated with any type of clear signage have made Limaná an eye-catching if not curious building to contemplate for locals of San Isidro and the neighboring Magdalena district. The structure, designed by Barclay & Crousse, an architecture firm based in Paris and Lima, is even more captivating inside.

Inspired by the classic homes of colonial Lima, a central interior patio is surrounded by two main dining sections, a bar and a small cafe. As elements of sustainability and nature are key to Limaná, none of the spaces are completely enclosed, allowing natural light (responsible for nearly all of the illumination) and fresh air to pour in. Every table has a view of flora, be it of the small herb garden or surrounding fruit trees. Though the project was completed months before the pandemic hit Peru, the layout naturally follows recent health and safety protocols.

In the future, groups looking for an intimate dining or meeting area may consider reserving the enclosed private dining room (though it is currently unavailable due to biosafety concerns).

The dishes

The name Limaná is the marriage of Lima—the gastronomic capital of South America—and the Hebrew word maná (or manna), meaning ‘food of the gods.’ Because, as Ana was reminded by close friends and advisors, if you’re going to open up a largely plant-based restaurant in a city where fish and pork rule, the offering better be an irresistible temptation. 

“The fact that you couldn’t go out to a healthy restaurant and really feel as if you were indulging—the way that one would if they were to go to Osaka or La Mar—was an impulse for me to create this project,” tells Ana. “I don’t want this to be a place that is solely attractive to vegans or vegetarians—I want to inspire all diet types to eat a more nutrient-dense meal and to generate the least amount of harm on animals and the environment while doing so.”

Beet carpaccio

The integral project plays out in the menu (accessed by scanning a QR code in order to cut the spread of germs and paper waste). Unsurprisingly, the options are mainly plant-based, however there are quite a few fish plates in order to lure in a broader audience of diners. We appreciated the inclusion of helpful icons to determine which dishes were suitable for specific diet restrictions (i.e. dairy-free, gluten-free, Paleo, Keto).

Tiradito de atun

Refreshing starter options include the zucchini and beet carpaccios. Single layers of the paper-thin cuts of vegetable are accompanied by a few texturous additions and topped with a natural vinaigrette. The zucchini carpaccio (S/ 25)—topped with shavings of pecorino, crunchy pine nuts and hints of red peppercorn—was a crowdpleaser, though it was the generous drizzle of tart raspberry vinaigrette and chunks of almond cheese that made the beet carpaccio (S/ 23) a dish to remember (and order next time we visit).  

Pescatarians (or any fish-eater, for that matter) will enjoy the tiradito de atun (S/ 29). A sauce of lemon and honey (for sweet-acidic balance) douse the thin cuts of raw tuna, while small cubes of toasted avocado provide a delightful hint of smokiness.

Corvina-dish-Limana-Restaurant-Peru
Corvina

While we were told the star plate is the colorful arroz meloso (S/29) (arborio rice cooked with a crema de aji and ghee), in no way did it impress us as much as the corvina (S/69): a thick fish filet paired with a buttery leek sauce. 

Broccoli with lima bean puree

We scraped clean the plate of broccoli with lima bean puree (S/29) a vegan dish of sauteed broccoli florets and mushrooms served atop a thick bed of creamed lima beans and a hint of truffle oil. Would we have felt full after enjoying just one of the meatless entrees? Perhaps not; however, with its large tables, strict adherence to safety protocols and a menu with offerings hard to find in any other fine dining establishment, Limaná can be the perfect host for a reunion with a small group of friends looking to share a few plates. 

And don’t skip dessert. The dessert menu is simple and sweet (though not overly sugary, as everything is sweetened with raw honey, dates or organic coconut sugar), and each treat is gluten- and dairy-free and keto-friendly. The tarta de fresas y frambuesas (S/25) is packed with a refreshing sweetness from the red berries, which we don’t see enough of in Peruvian restaurants. While we were served the tarta de chocolate y menta (S/21), we discovered the best of both worlds by purchasing the chocolate mousse with red berry sauce (S/18) from the cafe (also available in main dining area).

The cafe

This is where you can go to pick up a food item or caffeinated drink to go. A variety of hot and cold coffee drinks can be paired with gluten-free muffins and cookies, as well as savory tarts and pastels. A small refrigerated section lined with bottles of kombucha, tempting desserts (such as the decadent chocolate mousse) and a few to-go options (the day we visited we saw pasta salad and poke bowls).

While waiting for your order, peruse the back wall of shelves, stocked with reading material, large jars of raw honey, bitter chocolates, truffle oil and other treats and gift ideas. 

Why you should visit Limaná

Pet-friendly and nature-filled, Limaná is an urban oasis ideal for those seeking a calm space to enjoy a coffee or workspace outside of home; families who are looking for not just any restaurant that allows children in during the Covid era, but one where they are not confined to fast-food options; for dog- and nature-lovers seeking a refuge from city life.

Hours

Monday-Saturday, 12:30-8:30pm

Address

Av. Augusto Pérez Aranibar 2011, San Isidro

Contact info

www.limana.com

+511 6802629

reservas@limana.com

La entrada Limaná: Indulge in a Healthy, Fine Dining Experience in Lima, Peru se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Chinocharapa: A Peruvian Mix of Asian and Amazonian Flavors

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The restaurant Chinocharapa in Lima, Peru took advantage of the quarantine situation to set up a great home delivery experience. Here’s our review.

What came wrapped in a very neat, clean and simple package was a dazzling surprise to the palate and a story to be told. Chinocharapa is not just about the very, very, good food, it’s an experience to which, without a doubt, you will want to return.

Chinocharapa is a startup that opened just a couple of weeks before the quarantine began in Peru. Thankfully, it was not one of the young companies that closed; on the contrary, the situation became a period that allowed them to improve upon what they had learned in those few days that they were open.

The Chinocharapa experience

Chinocharapa learned to excel in the home delivery department. The food arrived in packaging that was mainly paper and cardboard (good for those of us who don’t like to use so much plastic) with the necessary branding quota to make them look unique.

We opened up the container and… gosh! good for us! To be absolutely honest, I expected something more greasy and full of smell: a mix of Chinatown and Mercado de Belén. But, everything had a flawless and inviting presentation; even more: the colors. It was like seeing through a kaleidoscope.

When I say the presentation was inviting, I honestly mean that even toddlers and adult picky eaters would be impressed. The owner, Christopher Vásquez, is originally a publicist and when he got serious about food he specialized in restaurant management. Knowing this, you can imagine that with Chinocharapa nothing is improvised.

The restaurant, at its core, is a chaufería, which means it specializes in serving the Peruvian-style fried rice (chaufa). Christopher decided to make it as such because he considers chaufa to be, “a generous dish to receive all kinds of inputs and mix; and the mix is ​​made by me; that mix is ​​me.”

Vásquez comes from a Loretana-Cantonese family. The amalgamation of cultures and flavors, Asian and Amazonian, that built this man also forged the restaurant. He says, “My vacations, each year to Iquitos [in the department of Loreto, Peru] and my regular visits to Jirón Huanta [part of Lima’s Chinatown] allowed my palate to accept both flavor profiles.”

The food

We tried the Combo Sheretero and the Piqueo Peque Peque. The names come from the Peruvian oriental living culture. As Christopher explains: “Sherete means your lover, your partner,” so this combo is obviously planned for two. And the Piqueo Peque Peque is designed for the little ones in the house; “in the jungle, it is colloquial speak to double the use of words, it is a kind of rhythm when speaking.”

The Sheretero includes: a large Amazonian Chaufa Mix, Mela Mela Beans, 4 Pork Wantons, Amazonian Tartar and Cocona Sauce.

The Amazonian Chaufa Mix is the center of the combo. I remember closing my eyes to taste the first bite and, to me, it didn’t taste totally like chifa nor totally Amazonian, either. My journey began with this dish: every bite brought forth memories that took me outside of Lima. I could clearly taste and experience the turmeric, the ginger, the green onions – all subtly balanced. The rice was not fried or greasy, it was slightly moist and the tortilla rolls do not go unnoticed.

As a side, we had the unforgettable Mela Mela Beans– my favorite, for sure. As Christopher explained, this Ucayali bean is particularly sweet, which lends itself very easily to mixing. Chinocharapa created something glorious with this dish: a sweet mix with sacha culantro (jungle cilantro), beans and first-rate Amazonian chorizo. It has the taste of home- of something prepared by mom or grandma, that is, someone with kind hands and a noble heart who strives to give you something extremely tasty.

Cocona Sauce

The combo comes with two sauces: the Amazonian Tartar, a tartar sauce that contains cocona (an edible berry fruit from the Amazon), sacha culantro and mayonnaise. It is a delicious sauce that I used on everything. Likewise, the Cocona Sauce is made with cocona, lemon, onion and other herbs. In my opinion, it goes perfect with the arroz chaufa.

The Amazonian wantons have no equal: perfectly and delicately crunchy– they seem gourmet, nothing coarse. Because of the delicious and large amount of filling they seem like empanadas.

Piqueo Peque Peque

The Piqueo Peque Peque includes: Amazonian jerky, chorizo ​​and plantain. By itself it is a success; a kind of Amazonian salchipapa (a Peruvian street dish made of hot dog and fries). This dish is for that picky person in the group because even though everything is fried, each element is gently and delicately seasoned without losing its origin. You can’t lose with this one.

Supporting local producers

Another very cool thing about Chinocharapa is that it makes a real effort to establish alliances with suppliers from the interior of Peru, or other partners that work with local producers. This is how he buys supplies from Ucayali, San Martin, Loreto, and so on. The owner is a true cultivator of ideas: with simple disposition, restless motivation and a young spirit. It is very easy to identify with Christopher, with his worldview and his stories.

As he said, “Chinocharapa says a lot about who we are [as Peruvians]. I have put all my chips here and I do it with all my love.” Chinocharapa is a true evidence of how contemporary Peruvians show their national, or criollo, identity and get the best of it in projects and products of quality and worldwide originality.

Chinocharapa info

Instagram

Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 12pm-8pm

You can order via Whatsapp at: +51981729213

La entrada Chinocharapa: A Peruvian Mix of Asian and Amazonian Flavors se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Cremeria Toscana in Lima, Peru: New Space, Same Authentic Gelato

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Serving over 24 flavors of sorbet and gelato, made fresh daily, Cremeria Toscana opens up a new locale in Lima’s San Isidro district just in time for summer.

So intrinsically linked are ice cream and summer that one lick of the creamy confection can be enough to ease our minds and lift our spirits—almost enough so to convince us we’re on vacation. At least, that’s how we felt when we walked into the new San Isidro location of Cremeria Toscana one Thursday morning. Presented with a colorful showcase of some 24 flavors of freshly made sorbet and gelato, we instantly felt care-free, our only concern being what flavor we would choose.

cremeria-toscana-flavors
Photo: Erick Andia

Authentic origin

Though Cremeria Toscana first opened its parlor doors in Lima in 2018, it’s actually a company with Spanish origin. Andrea Giuntolli, master ice cream maker, founded the first Cremeria Toscana in Barcelona, where it is now considered one of the best in the city. Relatives of the entrepreneur brought the artisanal recipes and high-quality machines to Peru’s capital to recreate the frozen treat in an authentic Italian way.

From national favorites such as lucuma and Italian classics like pistachio, the range of ice cream flavors allow the fresh and exotic ingredients to shine. Unlike typical ice creams bought in bodegas here in Peru, traditional Italian ice cream is not overly sweet and all natural (free of artificial ingredients). Delectably creamy, this artisanal ice cream will hold up its texture, refraining from melting quickly or developing ice chips.

Clockwise from top left: indoor swings; dulce de leche topped with lucuma; affogato with a scoop of cioccolato
(Photos: Erick Andia)

The day of our visit we sampled many flavors before finally deciding—a typical routine that customers are encouraged to perform by the friendly staff. We indulged in the classic cone of cookies (S/8), a two-flavor cone of dulce de leche and lucuma (S/11) and an incredible affogato with cioccolato fondiente (S/7).

New space

At the end of October of this year, Cremeria Toscana moved into a larger and more comfortable space. Remaining are the wooden swings, so characteristic of the original shop, only this time they look out upon the quaint outdoor patio and pet-friendly seating area. The shop can be found on Av. Conquistadores, just across from many restaurants and shops and a few minutes from the tranquil and expansive park, Bosque El Olivar.

cremeria-toscana-inside
Photos: Erick Andia

Following biosafety protocols, customers are required to wear masks until receiving their order, and less than 20 people are allowed inside the space to encourage social distancing. Quiet during the early afternoon hours on weekdays, we thoroughly enjoyed peering through the window into the production area, visible from the cash register.

As well, Cremeria Toscana offers half (S/35) and full liter (S/55) ice creams for pick-up or delivery (to districts Miraflores, San Isidro, Surco, San Borja and La Molina), all presented in eco-friendly packaging.

Address

Av. Conquistadores 169, San Isidro, Lima

Instagram / Facebook

Hours

Tuesday-Thursday: 11am-7pm

Friday and Saturday: 11am-8pm

Sunday: 11am-6pm

All photos: Erick Andia

La entrada Cremeria Toscana in Lima, Peru: New Space, Same Authentic Gelato se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

El Tío Darío: Peruvian-Japanese Cuisine in Arequipa

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A restaurant with beautiful terraces, views of volcanoes and authentic cuisine makes El Tío Darío a great culinary experience in Arequipa, Peru.

This well-known restaurant in Arequipa opened 16 years ago by Alfonso Eguiluz and the great Dario Matsufuji, one of the most representative chefs of Peruvian-Japanese cuisine in Peru. (His legacy continues in Lima with his son Toshi Matsufuji’s famous restaurant Al Toke Pez).

Darío, then, was one of the first to bring this fusion cuisine to the White City, specializing in fish and seafood.

The food

arequipa-tiradito-el-tio-dario
Tidadito Darío.

From El Tío Darío’s diverse appetizers menu, we chose to try cucharitas del mar (Darío’s cold appetizer with squid, slices of fish in pepper sauce, octopus and cebiche; seen in the cover photo); Soltero de queso con quinua (Arequipa’s traditional salad in Tío Darío’s own style, with three types of quinoa); and the one we couldn’t miss: Tidadito Darío (Fine slices of sole fish marinated in white vinegar, garlic and lemon juice) which exemplifies Dario Matsufuji’s style and one of the best tiraditos I’ve tried.

Soltero de queso con quinua.

As for main courses, we decided to try the famous Cauche de queso (A combination of Andean cheese, potato, mild pepper and a dressing) and the famous Tacuyaki de camarones (African-Peruvian fusion with beans, crayfish tails in white wine and butter sauce). These 2 dishes were incredibly tasty with very well balanced flavors, especially when I noticed they didn’t use much condiments but more natural flavors, instead.

el-tio-dario-arequipa-tacuyaki
Tacuyaki de camarones.

The Tacuyaki is so far my favorite and I can’t remember the last time I tried a tacu tacu (beans mixed with rice and fried) that made me feel as excited and happy as I felt eating this one.

Desserts at El Tío Darío

Tocino del cielo.

I am not a desserts fan but the trufas de chocolate (chocolate truffles), tocino del cielo (a kind of crème brûlée) and queso helado (iced milk with texture similar to cheese) were the perfect combination to finish this meal that really impressed me for the quality and dedication they put in every single dish.

The queso helado was creamy, soft, very tasty and is a must-try for you given that is the most representative dessert of Arequipa.

Safety protocols

In order to prevent the spread of germs, protocols of biosecurity have been implemented like social distancing (the terraces are very spacious and you won’t be sitting close to other visitors); food safety (there are less cooks in the kitchen and they are all equipped with protection for preventing food contamination); and disinfection (following high standards of disinfection and protocols, all areas are constantly being disinfected). Additionally, you can access to the menu is by scanning a QR code.

So, all safety protocols are implemented so people can come enjoy the sunny Arequipa weather and the great food El Tío Darío has to offer.

Why you should visit El Tío Darío in Arequipa

El Tío Darío provides a unique experience where the spring terraces harmonize with the view of the Misti volcano and Arequipa’s authentic food with a Japanese twist. It will make you feel like you are out of the city (located just a few meters from the famous Yanahuara square), offering a unique and memorable culinary experience.

Hours

Monday-Sunday, 11:00-4:00 PM

Address

Callejón del Cabildo 100, Yanahuara 04017

Contact info

website

info@alpandina.com

phone: +054 253586

All photos: Ivana Vysna

La entrada El Tío Darío: Peruvian-Japanese Cuisine in Arequipa se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

La Nueva Palomino: A Revitalized Staple Restaurant in Arequipa, Peru

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If you are looking for an exceptional and time-honored foodie experience in Arequipa, Peru, look no further than La Nueva Palomino. Here’s our review.

In the constant search for healthy, natural food options that are also very tasty, made with love and the closest thing to homemade, we head over to food apps on our phones, in search of comments or recommendations. And I say this because my own girlfriend can spend up to 45 minutes on her cellphone looking for lunch or dinner options

But, sadly, we have forgotten to return to our foundations, our traditions- to the most elemental parts of our history, our ancestral legacies. For example: the amazing Peruvian picanteria. And if for a moment you think: “mmm Picanteria … that must be greasy, smelly, heavy to digest.” You are very wrong. Especially when considring La Nueva Palomino.

What is a picanteria?

Picanterias are a part of the Arequipa culinary tradition: they are temples of good food. Built with recipes improved through the centuries, indigenous-mestizo-Spanish wisdom, sophisticated convent techniques and with key elements such as: chili peppers like rocoto, shrimp and guinea pigs, corn and güiñapo (germinated purple corn), potatoes and chuños, huacatay; and Arequipa’s papaya and tumbo fruit.

Places to eat with the “chupe philosophy”: meaning, prepared with ancestral knowledge. The picanteria food has a tinge of sanctity; out of all exaggeration, it is healing food. If you are vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, keto, paleo, or basically a meat lover, this is the place for you and your friends with various diets.

chili-peppers-la-nueva-palomino-arequipa

Trust me, I have gluten dietary restrictions and ate with absolute pleasure, nonchalance, and great surprise. You just need to tell your waiter what you are looking for, or the great Monica Huerta, the owner of La Nueva Palomino who will personally make sure you are well served.

New biosafety protocols, same classic taste

So, because of the pandemic, many of us no longer visit restaurants or only specific ones. Let me reassure you and tell you that La Nueva Palomino is amazing and mind-blowing with its biosafety requirements. I guarantee you that not even in Lima have I seen such a demand for safety and cleanliness: it was worthy of admiration and, above all, a much needed relief. Monica explained that she hired a series of expert professionals to guarantee and certify the care for both her guests and her team, which has not been easy, fast or cheap; however, it was indispensable.

The restaurant has been reconstituted in areas: pick up and delivery, waiting area and dining area. The owner says that if the requirement is to reduce the capacity by 40 to 50%, she made sure to cut it by 60%. In addition, she showed us how in all the dining areas, the ceilings are high and the spaces open. She has removed the typical tablecloths and menu cards; and has sent to make special tables that are easy to disinfect with each use.

She has thought of everything, even when choosing, each table has the QR code incorporated so that those of us who prefer to navigate the menu can do it on our own screens; or posters, ad hoc, so that the elderly can read the culinary offer. La Nueva Palomino has rigorously trained its staff to take extra care, more than necessary, without losing their affection and attention to detail. And when it comes to home delivery service, Monica has a special team of her own.

The food and preparation at La Nueva Palomino

As soon as we got there, we went through a rigorous exterior disinfection process. And Monica quickly greeted us with a sweet heart that we did not expect. She gave us hours of time, information and effort that many owners do not offer. She gave us a tour, including the garden and organic farm.

Soltero de queso.

She even cooked and showed us, step by step, how to prepare: soltero de queso and the incomparable ocopa de camarones. The first, which might seem simple, is not; it’s packed with little tricks and flavor. Beyond being a simple salad with finely chopped vegetables in which you mix everything – carrot, boiled egg, corn “wawito” (very fresh), broad bean, fresh cheese, olive oil, Arequipa onion, tomato, parsley, pepper and vinegar, accompanied by potato and sweet potato- is a synergy of flavor. So very different from cafeteria or fast food salads.

Ocopa de camarones.

The ocopa took longer because it required ancestral techniques learned historically and more sophisticated ingredients such as Arequipa shrimp from the Majes Valley -quite different from sea shrimp in size (almost 25cm), color and particularly very tasty-, ají mirasol “jaspeado” (a traditional way to toast), huacatay plant, onion, garlic, “egg yolk” potato, previously prepared “jaspeado” shrimp, walnut, cumin, vanilla cookies and “jasepado” garlic.

But, here I must stop and comment on something that is essential: La Nueva Palomino does not use a single blender, mixer, stoves, heaters or appliances that accelerate the culinary processes. Absolutely everything is prepared by hand with a “batan” (stone mill) or to firewood and fire. The urgency of the world has to stop here, it must; because it is a luxury, quite like if you are experiencing a cooking museum; even the devil would wait for the food at this restaurant. By this I don’t mean that things are slow; what I’m saying is that everything is done with ancient techniques.

The preparation marveled us; it seemed like a movie where everything happened very fast (due to her expertise) and at the same time very slow, the smells captivated and anticipated the mind for something that was announced as coming from divinities.

At this point we were full; but Monica offered us quinoa with tenderloin, a dish that I assure you will leave you speechless: almost like a three-cheese risotto, but quinoa instead of rice; and the softest and most flavorful beef. She was not done giving, of course not; her generosity is endless.

Desserts

Queso helado with papaya Arequipeña.

She gave us the traditional queso helado and queso helado with papaya Arequipeña… and we learned that there will always be a place in the stomach for such heavenly desserts. It is not a joke; they were delicious. The patient technique is what made them so flavorful; the first one is just made of milk, sugar and ice and the addition of Arequipa papaya for the second.

Buñuelos.

When we were already overflowing with gratitude, she let us know that we needed to try a little more: buñuelos and picarones. They were soft, very well harmonized, with a very delicate gourmet flavor.

Why you should visit La Nueva Palomino

If you want a historical experience, one that is provided with a lot of care, love and good treatment – as well as, rich and healthy food – you better eat at La Nueva Palomino. I guarantee that you will be admired by the process, more than satisfied and with a happy heart.

Perhaps you even leave with the desire to cook what you ate there. For this, they have implemented the sale of original supplies in La Recova, a beautiful little corner shop. I almost forgot: what they don’t grow or raise right there, they buy it from local producers because it is extremely important for them that everything comes out of the ground and is fresh; that it is not processed in large plants with preservatives and flavorings. This is the La Nueva Palomino philosophy.

All photos: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

La entrada La Nueva Palomino: A Revitalized Staple Restaurant in Arequipa, Peru se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

KUK Bread Bowls: A Fun & Tasty Experience in Lima, Peru

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What came in a beautifully packaged bundle of three was a delicious treat from KUK, a new bread bowl themed company that opened in May 2020.

When I opened the package at my home, there were three cold bread bowls with heating instructions. To be honest, I had quite a long day and was preparing my next day to go to Vichama, an incredible archaeological site north of Lima. And so, I took advantage of the fact that they were cold and kept them in my refrigerator until the next day when I would arrive home.

When it was ready to heat them up to enjoy, I was given two options to heat them up: microwave or oven. The microwave option was quicker, so I went with that. One by one, I heated the three flavors: lasagna, chicken with mushrooms, and bacon with leeks. Each bread bowl has a little bread lid and then slits cut along the edge of the bowl. My assumption is that it would prevent any mini explosion disasters. They took about 10 minutes to thoroughly heat through.

Bread bowl flavors

Chicken and mushroom

I went to open up the first bread bowl after it was heated, the chicken with mushrooms and to my delight, there was an incredible, Instagram-able cheese pull from the bread lid to the core of it. At this point, I was so excited and just needed to taste it. I took a bite of the bread lid and it was as delicious as it looked!

The bread bowls are sourdough bread and they are cooked to perfection. Light brown crust on the outside and soft, fluffy and chewy on the inside. So with my first bite, I was already in sourdough heaven.

Then came the goodies inside! Underneath the generous layer of melted cheese, was the chicken and mushrooms. It was delicious. Creamy and cooked well. I pulled the bread apart near the end with the slits along the edges. It was so fun to eat! It also felt great to not throw out any plastic or cardboard because the entire container was edible!

Lasagna

Next came the lasagna and bacon with leek. Both had no shortage of cheese and were equally as Instagram-able as the first. The flavors were delicious. I found the lasagna to taste like other lasagna dish in Peru, meaning that it is a little sweeter in taste.

Bacon and leeks

And who can go wrong with bacon and leeks? That dish was creamy and wonderful. I would happily indulge in any of the three flavors again.

After having an incredible and fun experience with the bread bowls, I had to learn more about the company and so I reached out the co-founder, Antonella Monzon.

The story behind KUK bread bowls

She and her partner and co-founder, Esteban Zuñiga created the idea during the COVID-19 lockdown, in May 2020. They saw the dish in San Francisco and Europe and realized that Peru needs to have the bread bowl experience, too! They were experimenting with sourdough starter, (I mean, weren’t we all during quarantine?) but they took it the next level by perfecting their technique and then went off with the bread bowls. Antonella explained to me that sourdough was their choice of bread because it is easier to digest and it doesn’t leave you feeling bloated, which I can confirm in my own experience!

After multiple trial and error periods with their friends as the tasters, they started to sell their product. It quickly boomed and after only one month, Antonella resigned from her job to focus solely on KUK. After only two months from opening, they opened their first dark kitchen. Now they have a solid plan for KUK and they even plan to franchise it in the next year or so. If you want to visit them in person, they now have a stand at Mercado San Martin in Miraflores. (Read about our visit to Mercado San Martin’s pasta stand).

Desserts

 I asked her about dessert options and they recently launched a chocolate cake bread bowl that has chocolate fondue and fun toppings like Oreos, Chips A’hoy, and raspberries! I know I’m eager to try that one out soon!

Why you should try KUK bread bowls

Although I received mine cold, Antonella assured me that you can order them hot already if you order through Glovo, Rappi or at the Mercado San Martin. However, you can still order them cold through those delivery options and in their website, www.kuk.pe, Instagram, or via Whatsapp.

Having them cold is great if want to bring them along on a day trip, or in my case, to save it for later when you have more time. They hold really well so you won’t have to worry about them getting spoiled immediately and your cheese-pull will be ready for you when you are.

Kuk is not just food, it’s a fun experience that you get to eat. They are an inspiring company that flourished during the COVID-19 pandemic and you will not be disappointed when you give them a try.

Cover photo: KUK Facebook Page

La entrada KUK Bread Bowls: A Fun & Tasty Experience in Lima, Peru se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.


Pezcadores: Delicious seafood off the beaten path in Arequipa

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Landing in Pezcadores is like discovering a culinary secret—and for this reviewer, it’s been hiding one of the best ceviches in Peru.

Pezacadores is located off the beaten path in the unassuming neighborhood of La Negrita, in the commercial center of Arequipa. While this may not be the usual address for a quality cevicheria or restaurant, it definitely stands out from the throng of other retail stores and businesses surrounding it with its large metal doors and clean design.

Pezcadores, as the name foretells, specializes in seafood. Meaning “fishermen” in English, though here pezcadores is spelled with a “z” instead of an “s,” a point meant to remind diners that this restaurant is different from other seafood establishments. Manager Julia Ballon says her family’s involvement in the fishing industry guarantees a regular supply of fresh fish every couple of days. The pick of the best on offer, she says, and you can tell that as soon as the food arrives that quality is important to her and the staff working there.

Julia’s idea was to build a restaurant which would suit the masses. A place to go for a casual lunch with good prices and quality food. She started small and developed as the business grew and now she has a popular eatery serving food to the locals and tourists alike. The premises are large and can definitely cater for intimate gatherings or large groups with ease.

fried shrimp
Langostinas Crocante, Photo: Jenny Guerrero/TLIP

We started our meal with the Langostinas Crocante essentially shrimp in breadcrumbs, Chinese style. Served with an accompanying sauce, these were definitely appealing to us and it wasn’t long before we were looking at an empty plate. For the second starter, we opted for the Causita Pezcadores, a traditional dish in Arequipa, the signature yellow potato topped with seafood (trout, octopus, dorado and crab) and a delicious mix of sauces – our favorite being the olive blend but they were all admittedly delicious.

A great sampler dish (suitable for two people) is the Fuente Pezcadores. Filled to the brim with ceviche, seafood rice, seafood bites, French fries and seafood in a variety of sauces – we enjoyed the look and the taste of this one. Perfect for a casual lunch with a chilcano or coca sour in hand.

seafood-platter
Fuente Pezcadores, Photo: Jenny Guerrero/TLIP
chupe-soup
Chupe de Langostinos, Photo: Jenny Guerrero

Interested in the Arroz Negro, we tempted our taste-buds with the rice cooked with squid ink. Topped with fried baby octopus tentacles, the dish was generous in portion and enough to fill the belly of any hungry visitor.

We finished with some local inspired dishes, namely the Chupe de Camarones and the Cebiche Pezcadores both which we highly recommend. All of the seafood was very fresh and cooked to perfection.

And somehow we managed to find room for the traditional Arequipenan dish, Queso Helado – served in cocktail glasses and cut up in bite sized pieces. We wouldn’t expect anything less from this stylish eatery.

If you are looking for a quality seafood restaurant, it is worth paying the cab fare to visit Pezcadores for a tasty lunch – note they are not open for dinner as they close at 4:30pm each day. Hands down one of the best ceviches we had ever tasted.

Pezcadores

Esquina Republica de Chile

Mariscal Castilla 328

La Negrita

Phone: (054) 221451

Facebook

Hours: Monday to Sunday, 10am to 4: 30pm

Starter – S/. 8-48

Ceviche S/. 21-35

Camarones S/. 26-48

Chef Recommendations S/. 24-50

Dessert S/. 10-14

This is an updated version of the review originally published in 2015.

Cover photo: Juan Felipe Rubio/Flickr

La entrada Pezcadores: Delicious seafood off the beaten path in Arequipa se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Zig Zag Restaurant in Arequipa: A Fusion of Alpine and Andean Cuisine

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If you’re looking for a place with history, a cozy atmosphere and unique fusion food in Arequipa, Zig Zag restaurant offers this and more.

Zig Zag opened its doors to the public 21 years ago with a unique European style that adapted very well in Arequipa. This style is about serving meat on volcanic hot stones; they are the first ones doing this in Peru. Zig Zag started working with a farm that raised ostriches in the white city, another new idea that everyone was dying to try.

Why you should go:

 Zig Zag offers the best of both cuisines (from the Swiss Alps and Peruvian Andes), giving you a unique experience in this beautiful city. As you will find what is probably the best beef and fish in this restaurant, they also offer you a wide range/selection of wines from South America and some European wines for the perfect food pairing experience.

The best of the food at Zig Zag

Andean trout

As an appetizer, we tried the small pieces of Andean trout that were very soft inside and crunchy outside because it was coated with kiwicha, an Andean grain similar than quinoa that took this pieces of trout to another level.

ramillete de cuatro carnes

The main dish was the most anticipated for us and of course we went for the beef. We ordered the ramillete de cuatro carnes to try the chicken, beef, alpaca, and pork. It was exciting to see the meat coming on a hot stone with some artisanal butter on the side to add more flavor to it. Be aware that the meat will keep getting cooked on the stone, so if you want it ¾, ask it in medium-rare.

The side dishes were as tasty as the meat and the best accompaniment; we picked a quinoa risotto that was soft and creamy, a fresh green salad, and small cocktail potatoes and we couldn’t pick better.

Though we were already so full, we were told that we can’t miss the roestis, which is like a Swiss Alpine pancake made with sautéed grated potatoes from the Peruvian Andes. We ordered the dish with a ratatouille on top and being honest, this was spectacular!

If you are a chocolate lover, you can’t miss the three-chocolate mousse made with pure Peruvian cacao that will make you wonder if you have tried real chocolate before. Simply amazing!

Why recommend Zig Zag

You can find great food and customer service a few blocks from the main square of Arequipa, and it offers good private areas to enjoy the experience with family and friends.

In this beautiful and cozy atmosphere, you can admire a historic iron staircase designed by the famous French architect Gustave Alexandre Eiffel.

Safety protocols:

All the staff follows the safety protocols to prevent the spread of germs and they also reduced the capacity of visitors by half (so you won’t be sitting close to other visitors); all areas are constantly being disinfected, workers keep social distance, and visitors can access the menu by scanning a QR code.

Hours: Monday – Sunday, 12:00 – 23:00

Address: Calle Zela 210-212, Cercado Arequipa, Perú

Contact info

info@alpandina.com

Phone number: 054 206020

https://zigzagrestaurant.com

All photos: Ivana Vysna

La entrada Zig Zag Restaurant in Arequipa: A Fusion of Alpine and Andean Cuisine se publicó primero en Traveling and Living in Peru.

Food Ready to Cook: Pre-Made Food Delivery in Lima

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Learn about this new pre-made food brand in Lima aiming to bring the restaurant dining experience home.

Food Ready to Cook was an absolute surprise. From a very clean delivery service, professional and neat packaging, to the (unexpectedly) delicious food from around the world, Food Ready to Cook is carving out an important place in the booming space of pre-made food.

In fact, what the brand offers is not frozen food; it only requires refrigeration and cooking in the oven for 30 minutes. I promise you, those 30 minutes will be worth it.

Ready to eat at home

Let’s start with what matters most: food. We got Steak & Ale Pie, Butter chicken & Thai rice, Beef Bourguignon & Potato, and Chocolate Crack Pot for dessert. Each dish is an experience of great pleasure that brings with it the inescapable remembrance of the times you brought international restaurants to your home, to your table. It is not at all about fast food or very tasteful  street food; We are talking about another type of delight, the pleasure of a restaurant; that place where we called to reserve seats, where they welcome you and accompany you and everything revolves around your experience as a commensal- and that experience now sounds so far behind.

A bit of this starts as soon as the oven begins to give off warmth and the aroma of inviting food is expelled; that warm and fine aroma that only in certain restaurants is perceived but before we did not appreciate so much because, usually, we were focused on conversations. Try and you will know what I’m talking about because while the food is baking, you can easily have a whole relaxed and gallant prelude. As soon as the food is in the oven, the atmosphere changes its tone, it is almost like a movie effect: the lights become warm, the music becomes harmonious, the mood calms down. Take out the good wine! And put on good music. Food Ready to Cook food is worth it. If it’s night, light candles.

Thai flavors

The Butter chicken & Thai rice was my favorite. It’s been a long time ago since I’ve eaten such a rich curry dish, and in Peru we are more used to paprika, yellow chili, to seasonings with chili peppers, in general. And being unusual, it is difficult to have a good point of reference. But the synergy of the ingredients is due to the expertise of Food Ready to Cook: Indian curry, chicken leg, Greek yogurt, coconut milk accompanied by Thai rice.

The curry sauce was the creamiest, it was one of those things that makes you close your eyes and turn on all the most positive sensations that your body has. And if you’ve never tried curry, this is the best way to try curry for the first time. You do feel the pinch of cashew, it is very creamy, like yogurt and deliciously spicy. As for the Thai rice, without a doubt, the best I’ve had in Lima. Each one is so, so good that you can easily eat them separately and still find delight.

Comfort food

Now, the Beef Bourguignon & Potato Pie had such tender meat that you didn’t even need to cut it with a knife. Such nice pieces of meat and the best quality of bacon; greaseless. The mushrooms, the slightly sweet onions and the carrots are felt in a wonderful wine sauce. The sauce was very delicate, fine. The best example that it is more than homemade food, it is food a la carte. Regarding the potato cake we obtained a light and delicious dish. Sure, one may wonder, how could potato and cheese be light? This is the magic of Food Ready to Cook. Very thin potato layers with, not heavy at all, creamiest cheese. So smooth and with a perfect salty balance.

Regarding the steak & ale pie, gosh! The fine and delicate puff pastry. The soft strip roast in a perfect blend with the vegetable stew. This I must say is perfect for the oven because it gives you all the experience of watching the puff pastry grow and even makes you believe that you made it yourself. I even dare to say that it is ideal to show off if you want to look good with someone else because it looks so beautiful when it comes out of the oven and it tastes so delicious that there is no loss. This tastes like a hug, it tastes like warmth, something worth loving. It is a dish made by someone who has mastery.

Time for dessert

And finally, the dessert: Chocolate crack pot. Absolutely chocolaty! But, it is not a dessert for confectioners only. It is a dessert where the protagonist is bitter chocolate; but, the reflectors are on the salted caramel. Therefore, I recommend it for those who do not usually ask for it, for those who rarely enjoy a dessert: this is the chocolate dessert that is worth the seldom given the opportunity to enjoy it.

Reusable or recyclable packaging

Something no less important is the packaging. The first positive impact comes because one can notice that resources were invested in packaging: there is technology, customization and professionalization. The material allows you to see that it is not anything improvised or mass-made, everything flawless. The design of the boxes, the spaces and the containers themselves speak for themselves. In fact, the food containers are reusable; Depending on the plate, you can have a wooden, ceramic or plastic container. You can decide if you will send it to recycle or reuse it (as we did with the ceramic containers). This I liked a lot.

Each box tells you how many people the serving is suggested for, the ingredients in the dish, the baking instructions, and the expiration date. In conclusion, a pleasant remembrance of the times one dressed well to go out to enjoy a nice restaurant with someone special where food was recommended by connoisseurs. That is why I mentioned at the beginning that I did not expect it to taste such delicious meal. Food Ready to cook is an emotional compensation for all these months in which we have not been able to have those experiences.

You can find Food Ready to Cook in Wong or in the Rappi and Fritz apps. The prices – quite attractive in the quality-price equation – are between 20 and 58 Peruvian Soles.

Instagram: /foodreadytocook.pe

All photos: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

The post Food Ready to Cook: Pre-Made Food Delivery in Lima appeared first on Traveling and Living in Peru.

Restaurant Review: La Crosta Pizzeria in Lima, Peru

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The flavors of La Crosta Pizzeria, with honorable simplicity, can easily compete even the best you have ever tasted.

When the food arrived, I was writing. In the very minute that I was saving my work on my computer, I couldn’t hold it, the smell was overpowering. I turned to the source of the smell, almost like a puppy obsessing over a toy. I’m telling you, it’s not a joke; the smell is so intense that it confuses you. Even if you have tried very good pizzas in the great metropolises of the world, I guarantee that the flavors of La Crosta, with honorable simplicity, can easily compete even the best you have ever tasted. But, I can’t forget one of the great differentiators: All La Crosta pizzas are made with sourdough, “raised” by the owners.

Three pizzas

Because of the quarantine restrictions, three of their pizzas arrived via delivery: Jamón al Pesto, La Crosta, La Etrusca and several pieces of garlic bread. The first, Jamón al Pesto, is worth it on its own, it stands tall, and is very strong in every aspect you can consider for a pizza. It has a very harmonious, luscious balance of basil, cheese and salt. It is not something that you find around the corner: it is tasty and unique and is considered the favorite or the best seller.

I must tell a little about his gestation: Pablo (the owner of La Crosta) missed the Genoese pesto sauce he savored when he lived in Italy. He really couldn’t get over that melancholy of its taste. We know that melancholy is an irremediable force that dominates you, so Pablo acquired the ingredients he needed and made his first attempts of the Genoese pesto sauce: “rich, but fixable,” he says. Practice makes perfection and so he would treat his friends with this sauce. “This is amazing!”, they would say, and years later, this sauce is one of the big favorites of his clients.

La Crosta is the other big favorite. Like all signature pizzas, “the name gives it an advantage,” says Erika, the co-owner. Tomato, wine and mushrooms stood out on my palate; but, I can’t forget the role of the caramelized onion and basil. For me, it has the flavor of one of my favorite jazz songs, of harmony and compromise. It’s elementary: you can’t question quality, you just can’t. They say that this was the first one they tried to do — like the very first cell of Pablo and Erika’s ingenious and creative facets, and it grew almost like bacteria from their own sourdough. It grew out of stages of improvement: they learned that caramelizing the white onion made it taste much better. And they learned, by mistake, that wine was a flavor bomb. They both lovingly point out that this pizza contains their favorite toppings.

The Etruscan is full of grace, and is a product of Erika’s intellectual curiosity; she found that the Etruscan people -who formerly inhabited what today are the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio- used goat cheese and honey in their diet. She had to try this intriguing contrast. By means of good vibes and persistence (like everything in La Crosta) they achieved this pizza that is unusual in the Peruvian capital. Now if you are familiar with Greek food, this one is going to flirt with your heart. It is tasty and has that divine element: honey. Even if you never dare to add honey, relax; you’ll enjoy this one because it stands on its own — like a bird feels sure of its wings.

Antipasto

We also received pieces of garlic bread, and here’s the story of its creation: sourdough. Pablo and Erika are a couple that enjoys cooking and a few years ago, on the beach, Erika wanted to prepare pizza. Yet Pablo thought such a task would require techniques and ingredients more complex than they seem. Eventually, he got some yeast to make the dough; several attempts later — and with the uneasiness of the yeast smell on the final pizza — a friend suggested making it with sourdough. Thus, they began a career full of attempts (it took years) and, little by little, they mastered the technique.

We experimented a lot. We learned that we had to program our schedules to fit the time need to make sourdough”, they commented. The quarantine of 2020 helped them perfect their technique. Thus, last year they launched their own bread as a new product, which they not only use as their own ingredient, but also sell to their strategic allies. “The quality increases with the sourdough, using yeast, at this point, does not make sense“, they comment. Back to the garlic bread; it was this that took me out of my initial concentration when the order arrived at my house. What a scent!

Forget about the dough that tastes like thick bread, with greasy sauces and mass toppings. La Crosta pizzeria has the flavor of something intimate; something created between intimates. The fruit of good intentions, beautiful desires, good vibes; but, above all, a lot of endeavor. La Crosta has the flavor of what is created behind closed doors, that turns out well and that you bring out because it is ready to stand in front of the world, it is ready to fly high. “Each product has something special, leading elements, they are not randomly mixed ingredients, each product has its own soul“, says Pablo. Finally, they left a thorn stuck in my curiosity when they recommended us to try the “Margarita de la Mancha” and the pizza with smoked eggplant (from the heart of Erika’s Romanian family).

We [small businesses] are a network of entrepreneurs, a network of friendly support; even emotional for the days of low sale in times of pandemic and functional to collaborate if someone has doubts”. As I told you before, the food at La Crosta is like a mine that not many know exists; but, that holds big fat diamonds. If you, by any chance, are looking for that pizza place to make it your exceptional place, worth every penny, you want to apprehend it as YOUR pizzeria, or even to show off if you invite others: my friend, La Crosta is the place!

You can order their pizzas and breads via Instagram, Facebook or Whatsapp.

Open: Tuesday through Sunday, from 12 to 9pm.

All photos: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

The post Restaurant Review: La Crosta Pizzeria in Lima, Peru appeared first on Traveling and Living in Peru.

La Peccaminosa: A Sweet Delicacy Amid COVID-19

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Find out how this former communications student took a chance during COVID-19 and ran after her dream in pastry with La Peccaminosa.

La Peccaminosa is a young brand born in November 2020. Whose owner and chef, Claudia Arauco, risked big to offer big.  She went from being a communications student to leaving everything behind and pursuing her sweet dream: pastry. The pandemic gave her the excuse to start her own business.

The homemade treats

La Peccaminosa desserts review

Two desserts arrived via delivery: 1 box of Güargüeros and 1 tray of Tiramisú. When I opened the box of Güargüeros -a dessert of 100% Moqueguan origin- the impact was tremendous. At first sight, they look like big cannelloni filled with manjar blanco. But they are much more than that. Claudia prepares manjar by herself in a pot; “yolks, pisco, and salt,” she says. The homemade manjar is tasty, and the dough is extremely soft and slightly crunchy. The sizes are perfect, bite-size. This dessert was my favorite! It allows them to bring to reality their philosophy of sinning little by little. The box comes with 25 Güargüeros and costs 45 soles.

Claudia’s tiramisu experience

La Peccaminosa tiramisu Lima

Tiramisu is one of those desserts that lead you to the dynamic of self-deception: you eat a spoonful and enjoy it, but the dessert away because you think it is enough, and then you come back with the spoon in hand to try a little more and put it away again because it will never be enough of the deliciousness. Claudia says it is her favorite. That she herself has come up with her final recipe, discarding some that suggest using colapiz, she prefers to give way to the creaminess. She comments that the vanilla part must be the creamiest; that the combination with coffee and chocolate must be exceptional. Certainly, when you open the tray, you notice that the dessert is generous in every way. The presentation is 1kg and costs 70 soles.

The peccaminosa theory

The name she chose for her brand is based on the Italian word pecaminoso, but Claudia tells us that she sought to change the last letter to adapt it to her personal style. Her philosophy is to avoid using artificial ingredients and over-sugaring desserts.  She aims to use organic packaging except for those desserts that require refrigeration, such as Tiramisu. She has dedicated enough time to her dream to offer us well-crafted desserts.

Where can you order?

Find La Peccaminosa on Instagram and Facebook, and the main food delivery platforms (Rappi and Glovo).

All photos: Maria Alejandra Baraybar

The post La Peccaminosa: A Sweet Delicacy Amid COVID-19 appeared first on Traveling and Living in Peru.

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